Best way to tackle surface rust on Floor pans?

DirtyBird · Jul 8, 2015

The lowdown:
I have not removed the seats but so far it looks like I have surface rust on the whole floor pans (see attached pic)
I also have two holes in the front and left that need replacing and I'll buy the front and left pans to replace.
I do not want to replace the whole floor, its too much money and too much work.

The question:
What are the steps to remove the surface rust and how does one do it?
What tools do I need, what is the process, and what are the best, most affordable products to use?

I've done some research and so far I know that I need to remove the rust, vacuum all the dust out, and then cover the floor with Rust encapsulator paint....then sound deadener and carpet, etc. (Also if you have hints for patching the holes).

Anyone will experience doing this? Thanks!

Ranger · Jul 8, 2015

Wire brush it, vacuum and paint with POR15 or Chassis Saver.
Chassis saver is about $10/qt less than POR15 and basically the same stuff. Neither is cheap, but well worth the price. I used it in my trunk and am about to do the same thing you are when I replace the carpets in a couple of weeks.
I can vouch for Chassis Saver, but be careful. If you get any on your hands, it will have to wear off. Get it in your hair, just get out the scissors.

DirtyBird · Jul 8, 2015

Thanks Ranger.
Let me know how it goes for you. I have a feeling you will be way ahead of me on your floor

bigmanjbmopar · Jul 8, 2015

Good ol elbow grease, I used Rust Bullet after scrubbing, then protected and sound proofed that with lizard skin. Then some undercoating with heat shield and sound absorber built in. Then new carpet. Works great.

DirtyBird · Jul 8, 2015

Sweet! bigman, looks beautiful in that RR. Also I appreciate the pics as they always help visualize. You also opened my eyes up to spray sound deadening...I really only read about dynamat and fatmat, etc. What's the main difference between spray and mats besides say, less weight and ability to access non flat spots?? Anybody tried both and can comment? Also lizard is expensive and I don't really want to buy the spray can...

DirtyBird · Jul 8, 2015

Btw what's that gauge setup you got? I originally though white gauges didn't fit but that looks very nice. (Here I go getting ahead of myself again...I gotta patch my floor first!!)

Ranger · Jul 9, 2015

I don't know about you guys, but my pipes are so loud that sound deadening is irrelevant.

Basketcase · Jul 9, 2015

best stereo ever made.....

DirtyBird · Jul 10, 2015

A few quick questions:

1. Whats that little long piece of metal called that runs next to the door sill and is this a necessary piece to replace?
2. How much product should I expect to use for covering the whole floor?
3. Do these wire brushes work well (when put on a drill) for getting rid of the surface rust?
4. Is there anything else I should tackle while I'm in the floor (i.e. stereo wiring, etc.) so that I don't ever have to go under there again!?

Many thanks!!

DirtyBird · Jul 10, 2015

This one or can someone recommend something that worked well for them?

mcmopar · Jul 10, 2015

Rust Bullet is a great product and is a bit easier to apply than POR-15 as there is no need to apply a treatment before applying it. Just get as much rust off as you can, clean the surface of loose material and apply. I have used both POR-15 and Rust Bullet and both have their advantages depending on where one is applying it. For your project I would use Rust Bullet - but use it in a well ventilated area. The fumes are pretty strong in a confined area.

Ranger · Jul 11, 2015

When I did my badly rusted trunk I used a stiff wire hand brush, but that drill attachment should work just fine.

One quart will leave plenty for other projects.

If you use anything like POR15 or Chassis Saver (not familiar with Rust Bullet), put a sheet of clear plastic food wrap over the can before you put the lid back on or you'll have to cut the top off to reuse the rest.

mcmopar · Jul 11, 2015

Ranger said:
When I did my badly rusted trunk I used a stiff wire hand brush, but that drill attachment should work just fine.

One quart will leave plenty for other projects.

If you use anything like POR15 or Chassis Saver (not familiar with Rust Bullet), put a sheet of clear plastic food wrap over the can before you put the lid back on or you'll have to cut the top off to reuse the rest.

:yeathat: good point! Forgot to mention that. Also I would highly recommend cleaning off the mating surfaces of the lid and can. Get them as clean as you can because the plastic can still tear and allow the metal to make contact - and if there is any of the product in that area you'll never get the lid off.

DirtyBird · Jul 11, 2015

Great tips guys, much appreciated! Can't wait to get started...now where to find the time!!?? Anybody know how to freeze time so I can hang with the bird for say...3 solid days??

jays69bird · Jul 15, 2015

I used the POR 15 floor pan kit on mine,and 20 years later it is still holding up. I never tried rust bullet, but I have used plenty of POR products and as long as the directions are followed they work and hold up great.

mcmopar · Jul 21, 2015

If you want to try something else you can go to Autozone and get a product called Evapo-Rust. It is not like Ospho. You can work with it bare-handed and it won't hurt you like the acid in Ospho. It works on a principle called chemical chelation. Check it out here https://www.evaporust.com/evapo-rust-rust-remover?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=IM%20-%20Rust%20%26%20Corrosion&utm_term=%2BEvapo%20%2BRust
This stuff works very well. You could soak a rag with it and lay it on the rusty spot. Leave it there about an hour and check it. Rinse the rag and reapply. I used this on the inner rear frame rails on my car and it removed 99% of the rust. I'm not kidding - the metal looked new. I will have to post some pics. After I rinsed it I sanded it with 80 grit sandpaper and applied POR-15 and then painted over that with some chassis black paint from Eastwood. Rust problem solved.

DirtyBird · Sep 17, 2015

This is what I'm working with...Do I need to replace those thin side rail pieces too? What are they called?

quikbird · Sep 17, 2015

Just the ones on the drivers side. They are the covers for the wiring harness going the rear of the car

DirtyBird · Sep 17, 2015

I know I'll have to sand to see how bad the rust is, but judging from the pictures, do you think I can get away with just buying the Front L and R pans. Was thinking about these Classic 2 current floor pans: http://www.andysautosport.com/products/classic_2_current__165-440-1.html

quikbird · Sep 17, 2015

Amd makes best fitting metal pieces. Others need a little more massaging to get fit properly

Best way to tackle surface rust on Floor pans?

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