Ignition switch- 1969 RR

WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING-
I have a question about the ignition switch. I noticed that at certain times I loose the fuel gauge due to the ignition key making contact in a certain way. I wiggle the key and the gauge comes back to normal.
I figure it is a 50/50 proposition......it is either the switch itself or the locking mechanism in the switch, maybe the key wearing things out with the years of usage.
SO, I decided to purchase the locking mechanism...……….I figure worse scenario, if it still does not fix the problem, I will purchase the switch also.

YES, I use the "KISS" method and the "SHOTGUN APPROACH"...…………….lol

¿ Has anyone had a similar problem?

LG,
Mike

Do the turn signals do the same?

Do the turn signals do the same?
_______________________________
Don't know because I don't remember working the turn signals when it happens.

The reason it was so noticeable yesterday is because I have just finished trouble shooting and fixing my fuel gauge.
I replaced the instrument voltage limiter with a SOLID STATE one and put an extra ground wire to it as well. NOT easy getting under the dash...………….

I also put a better GROUND cable on the gas tank sending unit itself. As it turned out, I did NOT install the new sending unit I purchased because the new one tested exactly like the old one. Neither one was giving me a FULL tank reading. They both stopped at 3/4 of a tank. Putting the sending unit to ground gave me a FULL gauge reading.

Not having the 6 volts required at the gauge will cause a LOW reading...………………..
SO, I went to test the voltage regulator (limiter) VOLTAGE reading. I was ONLY getting 4.98 volts on the mechanical limiter and it did NOT pulsate.
Once I replaced the voltage limiter with the Solid State one, I noticed the fuel gauge needle move a little faster and stop at the 1/2 mark. Before it would stop at the 1/4 mark. I'm pretty sure I currently have a half tank of gas in the car.

This is when I noticed that all of a sudden the gas gauge dropped to zero. I wiggled the key, and the gauge came back up to the 1/2 mark.

The issue of periodically loosing the fuel gauge has been going on for years. Last year I replaced the voltage regulator when I noticed that the voltmeter was over charging on the way back from a car show.

I'm pretty sure I now have my gauge issue resolved and want to fix the ignition switch issue once and for all. I do feel that there is more play in the key than there should be when it is in the ignition. This is why I opted to purchase the locking mechanism first.


Thanks for the quick response...…………

Old switches will get stuck just beyond the run position after starting and not much if anything works is why I asked

Is the switch in the dash or on the column. Parts mix has new switches back in stock. Makes you have three key's then. I can live with that. Good luck hope you get it fixed.

Russ69Runner said:

Is the switch in the dash or on the column. Parts mix has new switches back in stock. Makes you have three key's then. I can live with that. Good luck hope you get it fixed.

Click to expand...

________________________________
DASH...……….I converted this 'monster' from a 4 speed to a TCI "Street Fighter" manual/automatic with a "B & M" floor shifter.

Just took it out- less than 15 minute job. I was impressed how EASY it went. So far, I LOVE everything about this 69 RR...…...everything I have touched seems so much easier than the Chevy and Ford products I have worked on in the past. I'm talking about the simple things...…...For instance, this ignition switch...…….I unscrewed the bevel on the dash and pulled the switch out. All the wiring is on a connector that just SNAPS onto the switch itself. Once the switch was out, it was a simple act of turning the KEY and PRESSING on the little nipple and the lock pulled right out.
I suspect that the culprit is the lock. There is a lot of play with key installed...…………………..Will find out soon enough when the new one shows up.
I have ONLY known 3 keys...………………………..not a daily driver so it is very easy to live with. Besides, DO NOT ever lock it because it NEVER leaves my side...………..LOL

Thanks for the input,
LG,
Mike

That sound's grate. Hope the new switch fixes the problem. When getting mine they had pulled the tumblers out of the switch so any key would work in it. Now have the new switch. Yes it is pretty simple to work on the dash switch. The column seams to be a little more harder to work on. Good luck my friend.

69hemibeep said:

Old switches will get stuck just beyond the run position after starting and not much if anything works is why I asked

Click to expand...

Well, I just ordered the switch.

It appears that the key gets stuck in START and does NOT return to the run position on its own. I notice it when it happens because of a 'weird' noise and the fact that all the gauges STOP WORKING. I manually move the key back to the run position and everything goes back to normal.

I installed a new key and cylinder and soon will have a new matching switch. Should take care of all my electrical issues for the time being...………..
That's what I love about having a classic car, there is NEVER a dull moment...………..LOL

LG,
Mike

vso737 said:

That's what I love about having a classic car, there is NEVER a dull moment...………..LOL

Click to expand...

A "work In Progress" as they say.