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Over charging issue.

Mike Collins

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The car is over charging to up to 18-19 volts and is causing ignition problems. I have changed the alternator once and voltage regulator twice and car is acting the same way. I have checked grounds from battery to engine block and block to firewall with a continuity meter and is check good. The voltage regulator doesn’t sit on the fire wall super tight due to the pointed mount bolts. Any thoughts?
 

Russ69Runner

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Might could run a braded ground wire to one of the bolts from the engine to the regulator. That may solve the problem. :praying:
 

ricks_RR

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I had the same problem and what I found was the charging circuit ( wiring ) was oxidized and the voltage regulator was not getting the right reading due to the oxidation .I went to a one wire alternator and my problem went away because a one wire alternator only keeps the battery charged .
everything works great because I am running on the battery with no strain on the charging circuit or the cars wiring . I put a volt meter in the car and it runs around 13.5 to 14.0 at 55 miles a hour. I did it 4 years ago no problems
 

Big John

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A couple questions....

What year car are we dealing with?

If it's a '69 or older, has it been converted to the dual field/electronic alternator?

Have you checked the voltage with a different meter? Just tossing that one in, because it does happen.
 

ricks_RR

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with a one wire alternator all you are doing is taking the old charging circuit out but it is still there just tape the two wires that hook up to the alternator .because the wire that go's to the battery from the new alternator and by pass's the old so all you have is a ground from the new alternator and a wire to the battery . the old circuit just stays there so it looks like it is original just tape the two end from the old alternator .
I used 8 awg wire to go to the battery and to the alternator . so the car is running on the battery and the one wire alternator just feeds the battery when it needs it . what I did was on the back of the gauge in the dash is took the two leads and put it on one stud on the gauge and made a wire to go to a new voltage gauge just so I can watch what the volts are doing .you can buy them at any auto store . this was on a 1969 road runner
 

ricks_RR

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yes use stranded wire 8 awg wire this is on 1969 ROAD RUNNER I just put one on 72 road runner and he is very happy his car is running very strong now . if you have the old wiring over the year that wire tarnish's inside the casing and gives fails reading thru out the electrical system in the car .
if you have the money then buy all new wiring
 

oscar holland

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Forget about budget this kills me every time, but driving a new toyota or lada cost also money and where is the fun in that?
 

Rich B

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Too also have seen that tarnish/darkening issue on a few of the finer stranded wires over a lifetime. A rule of thumb, if what appears to be a copper wire will not accept flux and soldier- forget it. May get by with crimp connection but brittleness may be a factor there of strands and insulation.

Only explanation may be an alloy of some sort, substitute and not right portions of copper and additions for the wire. Stranded almost mandatory as mentioned for flexibility and vibration.

Believe it or not electricity runs on the outer circumference of a cable. Hi voltage substations run busses that look like plumbing pipe; center is hollow; can’t do that with a wire of coarse- go hollow core with insulation and be able to flex, expand and contract. Hollow core also aids with cooling and free air temps also. Already said way too much lol:bs_flag:
 

Big John

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Why are you guys bothering with this thread? The guy has exactly one post (this one), hasn't responded to anything and hasn't been back since the day after he posted this thread. June 28th to be exact.

Obviously, he's not concerned with anything we have to say or any suggestions we make.
 

ACME A12

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Why are you guys bothering with this thread? The guy has exactly one post (this one), hasn't responded to anything and hasn't been back since the day after he posted this thread. June 28th to be exact.

Obviously, he's not concerned with anything we have to say or any suggestions we make.

There you go again. Clouding the issue with facts... :rofl:
 

Russ69Runner

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Not to respond to the guy that asked the question and don't seem to care. But use welding lead's is one of the best wire's I have found for Dc current. Figured some guy's surfing the site looking for answer's to the same question may get the ideas that we share. Russ.
 

Rich B

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LMAO, I’ve answered on some maybe 10 years old, never noticed the date. Russ, your right about welding cable with the fine strands; those will carry huge amperage.
 

Russ69Runner

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It is like you said the voltage and current flow on the out side of the wire and not through the middle like most people think. I took three year's of electrical theory in an electrical apprentice ship collage. Missed my master's by three point's was a card carrying journey man. I was an electrical foreman for almost 20 year's. I also worked years ago at Tv and radio repair shop. Tedious work searching for the burned out transistor's and resistor's.
 

ACME A12

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I took three year's of electrical theory in an electrical apprentice ship collage.

Most of those courses take <1 year. Online courses take ~7 months these days...which I realize was not available back in your Hay Day. What pray tell took 3 years?
 

Big John

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Most of those courses take <1 year. Online courses take ~7 months these days...which I realize was not available back in your Hay Day. What pray tell took 3 years?
The classes for my Tool & Diemaker apprenticeship did take 4 years. They gave me 2 years credit for my 3 years in a Vo-Tech high school, but it was a 4 year program. Most of the apprentice programs were 4 years in New York State.

Of course, that isn't a full time deal. That was a couple nights a week after work along with OJT.
 
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