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Or... You can just fix the starter you have. 99% of the time, a intermittent problem is either the contact in the starter or the clutch drive. See the stud for battery power in this drawing? The contact on the other end wears out. That's if it engages, but doesn't turn. If it turns, but...

Hey! That's a legitimate offer. Real cash money!

I'll double it. $1600. Take it or leave it.

Here's the problem with that... It grounds to the fuel line, but the fuel line itself isn't necessarily a good ground. In theory, the line grounds to the body through the clips attaching the line to the frame, but it doesn't always work out. Paint... rust... dirt... whatever...

Adding resistance isn't what you want to do to correct the gauge across the scale. It moves your "zero" point but not the "scale". The Meter Match is the way to go. Here's what I did with my 300: https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/gas-gauge-fix.32116/ A couple things...

Is this your car?

Make sure it's not the oil pressure sender. It leaks, runs down and around the bellhousing and looks just like the rear seal is leaking. Lot's of rear seals have been replaced because the sender leaked.

Light timer for the ignition switch light. It will be warm to the touch when the door is open and the light is on. Shut the door and it will go off in a few seconds.

The classes for my Tool & Diemaker apprenticeship did take 4 years. They gave me 2 years credit for my 3 years in a Vo-Tech high school, but it was a 4 year program. Most of the apprentice programs were 4 years in New York State. Of course, that isn't a full time deal. That was a couple...

'65 Formula S and '70 300.

Why are you guys bothering with this thread? The guy has exactly one post (this one), hasn't responded to anything and hasn't been back since the day after he posted this thread. June 28th to be exact. Obviously, he's not concerned with anything we have to say or any suggestions we make.

A lot of times, that vacuum switch fails when the case ruptures and the "guts" fall out the back. This shows how those switches are put together. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ams/how-to-rebuild-a-vacuum-heater-control-switch.58/

Yes, you could get power steering on anything.

From the '70 dealer data book. http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/dealerships/1970PlymouthDealershipDataBook-02.shtml You may also see a version with a full ring. I think those were available in the C bodies.

Go to the front of the car, open the hood and lean over on the right of the radiator. Put your ear right down there, next to the purple thing. Now have someone push on that ring. :rofl:

The best info for how it works and what components are there is found in your factory service manual. The next thing to have is a factory parts manual. If you don't have them, download them here: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31 To answer your other questions, it runs constantly and with...

SSBC has a horrible reputation. From what I understand, they are now closed and have taken some customer $$ with them.

C-body defogger or speaker piece. Look up the part number.