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Chain your engine?

Rich B

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So HP is what you pay for but torque is what sets you back in your seat. This meant your engine is actually attempting to twist right out of the engine mounts. No, the 383 Wedge didn’t end up with a whole lot of power for ratings. Now changing from the factory Carter to the equivalent Holly carb. was a 5 HP gain (hand choke worked great). Not what post is about though.

The article stated to connect a chain that wouldn’t snap from the engine block to the frame. If I recall right on the pass. side as motor rotated CCW. Would keep engine connected to prevent from destroying mounts on that side. Why wouldn’t one of those heavy nylon straps with ratchet be the same? My point being......

Never tried it but the dam clutch linkage where mounted to firewall broke right apart one morning on me. So I could put it back in place and welding linkage bracket would of been ideal (no welder of coarse). Connected linkage to a chain and fire wall bolt above where break was in bracket tang. Turnbuckled into place, alignment was spot on. Never had repaired, bracket was part of firewall as I can recall, not changeable. There you have it, lasted that way until I traded in ‘79 and was a conversation piece anyways.

Once in a blue moon something as such an idea can pay off? Why have fixed, probably would just snap again anyways- a better mouse trap. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/plymouth/roadrunner/parts/mb2430.html This part to the best of my memory.
 
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69hemibeep

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Torque strap or chain would go on the drivers side if that is what you choose to do.
 

Russ69Runner

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Chain is better. We broke a motor mount leaving the line. All of a sudden the fan started coming through the hood what a racket it made. It scared the hell out of me. It is like what the hell is that. Sparks flying every where. Not a good thing to have happen. So we chained both sides. :lol:
 

Rich B

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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_B_engine This is interesting, yes am sure too Bob is right. The engine rotates CW, just something I thought of from 50 years back. It’s true, I can’t remember if that was facing or behind motor lol.

Also had solid motor mounts, who needed the extra shakes and rattles? I can’t recall a whole lot of unwanted noise. But wait, the exhaust was way louder and covered all that up- no wonder I have tinnitus these days.

https://www.manciniracing.com/entost.html These are pretty nice, also makes me wonder how today’s cars are holding up? I’ll check out.
 
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69hemibeep

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Back in the day I used a motor plate on my Barracuda but then I didn't care about vibrations or noise.
 

ykf7b0

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I have a short chain on the drivers side. These big block Mopar's are torque monsters!
 

RKNRLR

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I had a chain on mine when i bought it, but it was just a pissy little thing, didnt look like it could hold my lunch!
 

6PKRTSE

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I have always just drilled two holes thru my stock motor mounts, countersink for a flat head cap screws, and tighten with thinner jam nuts on the bottom. Holds it from tearing the mounts, but also allows some movement and no noise/vibration from being solid mounted.
 

BioMedTechGuy

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On my 71 Charger R/T back in 78-79 I used an adjustable turnbuckle with 2 short lengths of chain...
DRIVER'S SIDE
I knew I had to adjust (tighten) the turnbuckle when it didn't chirp 2nd gear at full throttle w/the 727 SlapStick auto...
I added it on my 2nd new driver's side motor mount.
Strange thing is I don't have one on my posi, much hotter 440+6bbl manual transmission 70 Roadrunner
 

Russ69Runner

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I like that they make a set to do just that other than a chain. But we did the same thing large washer and a little longer bolt with a piece of pipe for a spacer to hook the chain to on the motor block the put a bolt through the subframe. To hold the other end.
 
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