Dieseling problem, rear brake leak, noise from exhaust

[nicanor]

When I came home from taking the RR on another ride I seen brake fluid running down the inside of the tire to the ground and it seems like the whole drum had brake fluid on it. Probably something simple like a wheel cylinder. But if I'm converting the front brakes to disc, does it make sense to change the back to disc also. This is a non power brake car.

Getting some dieseling during shutdown of the car. Car ran fine on the highway, cooling down some, but the car diesels when I turn off the ignition then is a little difficult to restart. I have a Holley 770 Street Avenger.

Third minor problem, it sounds like the exhaust is hitting the starter, K frame or something. Its especially knocking after the car is warmed up and I depress the clutch.

Slowly getting it back together hopefully to get it into paint somewhere in the next month.

Thanks for the help,
Barry

 

[Big John]

When I came home from taking the RR on another ride I seen brake fluid running down the inside of the tire to the ground and it seems like the whole drum had brake fluid on it. Probably something simple like a wheel cylinder. But if I'm converting the front brakes to disc, does it make sense to change the back to disc also. This is a non power brake car.

In my opinion, no. These are front heavy cars that do most of their braking at the front. The rear brakes are large and if they are in good condition will work quite well the way they are. Also, you'll have to come up with a good alternate emergency brake. New wheel cylinders, hardware and good brake shoes and you'll be set.

Getting some dieseling during shutdown of the car. Car ran fine on the highway, cooling down some, but the car diesels when I turn off the ignition then is a little difficult to restart. I have a Holley 770 Street Avenger.

Usual suspects here, fuel quality, idle speed etc.

Third minor problem, it sounds like the exhaust is hitting the starter, K frame or something. Its especially knocking after the car is warmed up and I depress the clutch.

Check the motor mounts AND the trans mount.

 

[dobie]

Check your timing too for the shut off issue.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Well, I will say that the manual drums served my last car well, and many before that, including a much heavier Charger. I just was aware that I wasn't in a canyon carver and drove with that in mind.

So I think you can get by with a rebuild of the rears. I would look into the SS hoses from Russell while I was tearing it down. You need the OEM brass T that is held in by the vent tube bolt. Some cars have had aftermarket hoses installed that elimnated that piece. Pretty sure someplace repops the T.

Check the timing at idle w/ the vaccum advance capped off.

You likely need a torque strap. Piece of chain, Schemaker(sp?) strap, or etc. Will make a big difference in shift quality. The car in my sig was basically a crappy drive w/o the strap. Pretty sure those Korean mounts had something to do with that. I also installed a poly trans mount to limit slop.

Was an overall great setup.

 

[george68hemirr]

what big john said and you could be boiling gas in the carb and causing it to overflow which is dumping down into your primary/secondaries which causes dieseling and hard starts......when you try and start back up floor the gas and leave it there to clear the flooding....you may have to lower your float level

 

[Basketcase]

exhaust could be the tal ppes hitting the frame or the head pipes on the trans crossmember.