Electric Fuel pump?

[a6t9vette]

Guys, well the latest issue is that seems that the fuel pump shaft either is worn to the point there it does the create enough stroke to pump any fuel. I could get fuel all the way to the pump, and nothing, took off the inlet side hose and had my finger over the inlet and there was no suction. My neighbor (owns his own service station) was helping me out with an extra set of hands and from some diagnostics it seems that there just isnt enough stroke. I was under the impression that you could swap out the shaft by removing the allen head bold below the pump opening, but we are guessing that the shaft is mushroomed or something that isnt allowing it to come out the bottom. Assuming thats what the plug is there for.

Either way I think im going down the road of an electric pump as I really dont want to rip my newly painted, etc motor apart. So im looking for some recommendation on what to use, I dont picture needing anything too crazy with a relatively stock 383. I was thinking about doing an inline pump right near where the mechanical is now which would keep it hidden, but might be better off with doing a rail mount option under the car where i can hide wires easier. Any one running an electric set up for a relatively stock set up, and what are you using?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[droptop]

Electric pumps are designed to push, not pull fuel. Mount it in the back as close to the tank as possible. I have used electric pumps for years. With today's gas, unless you drive your car every day, you have to crank until you fill the float bowls up with fuel. I just turn the key on for a few seconds before cranking. It fires right up, after setting the choke, no matter how long it has been setting.

 

[a6t9vette]

What style are you using, an inline or something like a Holley Red? I was just under the car looking for a spot to mount it is seems that the only place is in front of the rear on the wall that is the back of the rear seat, which still would require a long (~2 - 2.5') hose to go from the tank, then back to the hardline....

 

[Basketcase]

If you pull your fuel pump, there is an allen plug on the block, that will let the push rod slide out. Then you can check it. I've never run into a wore rod, but I have seen the cam lobe that runs the rod wear out. If it is the rod, it's an easy fix. If it's the cam lobe, you can change cams or go with an electric pump.

 

[a6t9vette]

Problem is the shaft doesnt even slide down to the point where it gets close (still can get my finger tip in between) enough to the wall of the block where I thought it would even come out. I can get a finger or two on it and try to slide it out more but it almost seems that its capative at the top and wont slide out which is why Im thinking it may be mushroomed.... I assume if there was no issue it would just slide right out correct?

 

[Basketcase]

yeah if there are no issues, it should slide out. If you pull the pump off you should be able to see well enough thru the pump hoe to see the cam end of the rod.

 

[mcmopar]

We've talked about this before here on the site. My fuel pump rod and I think Stuie's wore the end off and needed replaced. I found that Hughes Engines (http://www.hughesengines.com) has a hardened fuel pump rod that has worked very well for me since I put it in 6 years ago. All you have to do is remove the alternator and fuel pump, remove the allen head plug in the block under the pump and remove the pump rod. You may need some long needle nose pliers to coax it out. Then, put the new rod in with some assembly lube on the ends and put the fuel pump back in and hook up the fuel lines. It couldn't be simpler. The problem with the original rods is they are too soft - especially if used with a new or aftermarket cam.
Get the hardened fuel pump rod and a magnetic drain plug for the oil pan from Hughes. The magnetic drain plug will catch all of the fine metal shavings deposited into the engine by the worn fuel pump rod. Drain and replace the oil OFTEN to get the metal out of the engine! Do it now! Or else that nice newly painted engine will be a piece of junk in no time.

 

[a6t9vette]

Score.... After some body contorting, and cleaning everything off so I could get a grip on the shaft I was able to get it out. Im assuming its suppose to be symetrical with the reduced ID section of equal lengh on both sides its worn probaby 1/4". Looks like this saves my electric fuel pump hastle. Thanks for the push in the right direction guys....

 

[69hemibeep]

If any one runs into this and needs to go electric I like Carter RV pumps, they move allot of gas and are self regulated to about 7lbs no need for a regulator. I use them on both my Jeeps with 750 holleys, as said they need to be in the rear to push. :cents:

 

[V269]

If any one runs into this and needs to go electric I like Carter RV pumps, they move allot of gas and are self regulated to about 7lbs no need for a regulator. I use them on both my Jeeps with 750 holleys, as said they need to be in the rear to push. :cents:

:yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod: I too have been running a carter electric pump on my car for year's. They work very well and yes it has to go in the back.

 

[george68hemirr]

if anyone needs a awesome electric pump go with the mallory.....it only pumps 250 gallon per hour.....that feeds the hemi :yesnod:

 

[moparstuart]

if anyone needs a awesome electric pump go with the mallory.....it only pumps 250 gallon per hour.....that feeds the hemi :yesnod:

if only it magically made the gas too .

 

[mcmopar]

Score.... After some body contorting, and cleaning everything off so I could get a grip on the shaft I was able to get it out. Im assuming its suppose to be symetrical with the reduced ID section of equal lengh on both sides its worn probaby 1/4". Looks like this saves my electric fuel pump hastle. Thanks for the push in the right direction guys....

Yup - that's exactly the way mine looked. Did you happen to install a new cam when you built the engine? If so, it seems the newer/harder camshafts really take their toll on the original pump pushrods. That makes 3 of us now that have had the pump pushrod worn off at the cam eccentric.
Please remember to get that magnetic oil pan drain plug from Hughes Engines. There is a LOT of fine metal shavings in the oil now and you need to get it out of your engine. Just changing the oil and filter won't do it. The filter can only trap so much and if the bypass engages (usually on hard throttle operation) you won't get much in the way of oil filtration. I still get some metal on the drain plug 6 years after the meltdown, although it is nothing compared to what it used to attract. When you drain the oil and swap the original drain plug for the magnetic one you may want to spray a good amount (say half a can or so) of carb spray into the pan through the drain plug hole and let it drain back out. This will carry some of the metallic particles out of the engine. Get the front of the car up as high as you can so you get a good flow back out of the pan.

 

[a6t9vette]

Thanks for the tips, I was planning on doing a oil/filter change once I got this prob sorted out anyways....

 

[mcmopar]

Thanks for the tips, I was planning on doing a oil/filter change once I got this prob sorted out anyways....

I'd recommend 2 or 3 more in just the next 1000 miles or your bearings may end up being in a bad way, lifter faces and cam lobes, too. I'd also recommend a synthetic to provide more lubrication and possibly an additive like anti-skuff compound used in cam break-in to make sure everything stays well lubed. I ran Wal-Mart synthetic (and still do) and have had zero problems so far. Since the pump rod meltdown I've probably put 7500 miles or more on the car and so far all is well.

 

[rr68]

Just last year I was exposed to this issue. After taking my block to be machined and completely rebuilding it I was presented with the same issues getting fuel to the pump but no further and discovered the the machine shop had installed a 383/400 rod for the pump which is approx. 1/2 shorter than the 440 rod so this is definately something to check. as mentioned previously just remove the pump and then the plug it should just about fall out in your hand ! Hope this helps!

 

[mcmopar]

Actually the pump rod is the same length for both B and RB engine families. Hughes Engines offers only 1 hardened fuel pump rod for big block Chrysler engines. So either the shop put in a defective rod or your cam ate it up fast and deposited the shavings into your nice, new engine. If you still have the old, ate up pump rod take a close look at the ends. What you see may surprise you. Have you checked to see if there are any shavings in your used filters? Even if there are none I still say its a very wise investment to get a magnetic drain plug. It will pick up any loose metallic particles in the oil and that is a good thing!

 

[69hemibeep]

These rods act just like a mechanical lifter I'll bet the lack of zinc in the oil is the cause. :cents:

 

[george68hemirr]

lack of zinc.....you mean to tell me you are running without zinc in your engine???.....i use that ZDDPLUS that big daddy recommends....10.00 one bottle for 5 quarts of oil or you can buy oil with zinc in it for 1 dollar per quart more....valvoline racing oil

http://www.zddppluscentral.com/

 

[69hemibeep]

lack of zinc.....you mean to tell me you are running without zinc in your engine???.....i use that ZDDPLUS that big daddy recommends....10.00 one bottle for 5 quarts of oil or you can buy oil with zinc in it for 1 dollar per quart more....valvoline racing oil

http://www.zddppluscentral.com/

My engine could be used for a zinc mine there is so much in it, I was talking oil in general