Ignition or carb problems?

[hlrich24]

Alright guys I am pulling out my hair! Need some help!.... So since I have had the runner on the road and put maybe 30 miles on it I have fouled out 3 sets of plugs!... It has electronic ignition and I have changed every part except the Dist. I have changed the Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, Voltage reg., Coil, Ballast resistor, Checked the grounds and cleaned them to bare metal, battery and rebuilt the carb (Carter AFB). The color of the spark is orange from the coil if that makes a difference. Set the timing 3 different times! When we were setting the timing though sometimes we would get a light and sometimes not? Checked the timing light and then checked it again and still the same thing. The light came on when the idle was brought up. The car used to have an alarm on it that was tied in everywhere so I removed it thinking that was part of it but it still does the same thing. The question is could it be the magnetic pickup in the dist.? Could it be somewhere else in the carb? The car would run great with new plugs in it but the second you would crack open the 4 barrels it would pop rapidly through the carb. ONLY when the 4 barrels are open. Just driving it was fine. I am at a loss here. Could it be the dist.? What am I missing here? HELP!!!!!:grumpy:

 

[metalstorm]

Could the intermediat shaft be moving changing the timing at more rpm?The timing light needs to be held shut sometimes to get a signal with the magnetic contacts.Can you try a different carb?

 

[hlrich24]

I do not have another carb but I am thinking of buying one just to try. The shaft seems solid. Very minimal play.

 

[Big John]

I usually start with "99% of carb problems are electrical".... But this sounds like carb to me.

I think you have some sort of over rich condition. Leaky carb or something like that. Check your float level first.

 

[droptop]

Sounds like valve timing to me. Did you degree in the cam?

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I went through a series of plugs to find a set that works for my set up. Tried NGK in 3 different heat ranges, then tried Champion, starting with the OEM jy12C then to a colder plug C59YC then realized my motor with Elec ing needed a real hotter plug so ended up with C63YC and it's been good ever since.

 

[george68hemirr]

i agree with big john

 

[4spd69RR]

Is your harmonic balancer one piece or two? I had a factory two piece harmonic balancer on my old runner, due to age, the outer piece slipped which through off my timing. Even though the car would crank I had a similar problem. I could never figure it out until my father in law pointed it out.

If you have an orange/yellowish spark you may have a ground issue that you have not found yet. Your Spark should be bright white, or blue. Are you grounding from the ECU to the block?

 

[hlrich24]

I had the carb rebuilt. It is a stock 383 RR engine. I think that the magnetic pickup could be going out. I am going to check the volts at the coil and then from there I will check the dist. May be install a new one. John I will try the hot plugs C63YC and see what happens there. Where I am stumped is in the higher RPM's. It rapidly pops through the carb when you step into it and looses all power. Just driving it around it is completely fine. I am also thinking of just installing a new carb.

 

[hlrich24]

so I checked the volts at the coil and I have 5.5.... so there lies the problem...... I will do so more wire chasing tonight and keep everyone updated.

 

[hlrich24]

Alright guys. Tell me if I am wrong here. So i traced down wires and fixed a few problems but here is where I am stumped....... When the ECU is plugged in I have 5.5 volts to the coil at the POSITIVE SIDE.... when it is unplugged I have 12 volts at the POSITIVE SIDE.... isnt it supposed to be 12 all the way through until it is running and then drop to 9 at idle?