Ok want to go through an 383

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  1. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    Any one have suggestion's on rings. Rocker springs. Lifters. Crank bearings. Just about every thing to rebuild this motor to like new. Might put a street cam in but nothing heavy. Would appreciate the info. Russ.
     
  2. Coyote

    Coyote Well-Known Member

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    Name brand stuff! Lots of excellent suppliers. If you are replacing all valve gear, I’d stick with lifters, springs, retainers ALL from whatever cam supplier you use. A complete cam kit would probably be less money than mixing different stuff.

    Staying with all name brand parts should keep you out of the woods.

    Howards cams makes repop grinds of lots of muscle era cams. 375 hp 440 cam would be civilized and fun! Pretty much same as stock RR cam.

    Tons of great choices out there!

    Get ready for machine shoppe sticker shock. Good luck! Keep us advised.
    :thumbsup::beep:
     
  3. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    Yea Coyote. Hoping that the bore is still good. This motor was bored 30 over already. Just would like to put in new cam. All bearings. Valve springs if Valve's are good do a reseat. I do a lot of motor work over the years. Hone my cylinders my self. As little machine work as possible those guy's are not cheap and take for ever to do the work. Also hard to find a trust worthy shop. Lot of them have gone out of business over the year's around here. Thanks for the info. :beep:Out the way slow poke runner coming through.
     
  4. dmartin

    dmartin Well-Known Member

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    Crane makes good lifters springs and cams that’s what I have
     
  5. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    Yea Brett. Looking at that. We know how important to have good Valve spring's and lifter's. Did you go with solid lifter's or hydraulic one's that is a question I have been asking around on. Which is the best. With hydraulic one's know you can get a collapsed lifter. Or some say a floated lifter. Really only had that problem when drag racing never when just normal driving. Russ. :kartman: questions questions. To many things to think about.
     
  6. Coyote

    Coyote Well-Known Member

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    IMO juice lifters are the only way to go for anything but all an out race car. Less aggravation, maintenance, noise and more :beep:peace of mind.

    Almost all decent ones will buzz six grand rpm. How much more do you think you’ll need or want on a street car?

    Choosing cams is great fun too. If you have doubts, call any cam grinders tech assistance line. Their professional advice is free and almost always tailored to your needs and your expected usage.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2018 at 9:56 AM
  7. 69hemibeep

    69hemibeep Sponge Bob Square Wheels

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    download (1).jpg And stay away from the old grinds that make the car sound like a funny car at idle, make your eyes bleed from unburned fuel and the power curve is from 5700 RPM to 6200 RPM. And AMC Pacers are kickin your ass off the line.
     
  8. Coyote

    Coyote Well-Known Member

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    Harrumph! That’s where the fun is! Impress the troops at cruise ins, who cares if it’s a slug/as long as it sounds wicked!:beep::lol:
     
  9. Coyote

    Coyote Well-Known Member

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    Here we go, look out below!:drama::rofl::soapbox::luvplace::beep::beep:
     
  10. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    Ok just want a street cam nothing to radical. Would like to drive through wall mart parking lot with out it lunging forward with every stroke of a piston. Would also like too get fairly good gas millage. Something better than 6 or 10 miles to the gallon. No it's not going to be a dragster. Just want a little more than it came with. Russ.
     
  11. dmartin

    dmartin Well-Known Member

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    Hydraulic lifters don’t think I will be racing spent to much money in this car to wrap it around a tree
     
  12. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    I Hear that my friend. If I want a drag car would not be worrying about so much about the body or leak's. Would just get an old beater and would not care so much about tearing it up. After all that is what happens when drag racing you brake every thing under the sun and then some. :lol:
     
  13. CompSyn

    CompSyn Well-Known Member

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    Because of your note below regarding the pistons, there is a high likelihood that your 383 is supporting low compression if you're combining unknown pistons and 906 heads. Compression in the 8:1 range or even lower may be a reality. Unless you know for sure what type/brand pistons were installed and what the compression distance of the piston is, it's going to be hard to know for sure? If you have the ability to put a dial indicator on your piston @ TDC to see how far in the hole you are, that would be very good to know. Without having this information in hand, it would be highly advisable to use a cam no bigger than stock.

     
  14. Russ69Runner

    Russ69Runner Well-Known Member

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    Thanks CompSyn. That is good advice. When the motor rebuild starts will do all these thing's. It was possible to put a lighter cam in motor's to make it a little hotter. We used the old blue streak cam back in the day. They only gave you a slight increase in the valve opening. Just added a little more horse power. This motor had been bored. At some point. So when opening the motor will Mike every thing and go from their. Hoping to see cross hatching still in the cylinder wall would be a plus. Would limit the amount of work I would have to do. But will check bore and look for piston skirt slap in the lower half of jug. Thanks again. Russ.
     

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