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Take a look at this picture. What looks to be leaking to yall?
Thing is what dose it look like trans oil or motor oil. In this area could be transmission seal or rear motor seal. Could be coming from the torque converter. Rear motor seal is a two part seal and where prone to leak. Take a sample of it to a local mechanic. The smell test should tell you if it is trans fluid or oil.
Color might help also. Red is tranny fluid, darker is oil
Yep Quick bird. From what I see it is pretty thick so tend to think it is motor oil. Hate to replace the rear main seal it is a pain. If you have to do the rear might as well do the front one also while you are their. With the pic. he cut off the floor where it would be puddled.
Check the right rear valve cover gasket for a leak too, this area is notorious for leaks and it will run down to the pan area causing you to think it's the oil pan or rear main
I agree with that. The valve gasket's on all motor's due tend to leak at the back after a while. Think because of all the heat near the fire wall. Hope that is the problem easy fix.
Here is the right valve cover
what is the best brand of valve cover gaskets for my 383 mag?
I use Fel pro works for me
So have you discovered that the valve cover is leaking. Just asking. I changed mine on the 383 motor in my car their was a lot of oil on the block at the back. Plus wanted to look in to the valve area to see what it looked like as far as being dirty or any thing loose. Just checking thing's out had not cranked the motor yet after buying it.
Do you recommend a adhesive for installing the new valve cover gaskets?
No use to wipe them with a coat of motor oil if they are not the rubber type. Just a lite coat should do it. Other guy's go crazy with the sealers. Some sealers can foam in the engine and close up oil ports from what I have read. Use to use Permatex back in the day on some gaskets. Now they make all these new product's still like a gasket. Like Lock tight for nut's and bolts.
I've got a 69 383-4 with a 4-speed and have an oil leak in the same place. I'm thinking that it's an engine oil leak and not the trans. I am not looking forward to a rear main seal replacement.
Its really not that bad. You don't need to remove the trans just the oil pan. Break the bolts lose and the bottom comes right off. The top can be rolled out. Get it started with a small screw driver. Be careful not to gouge anything. The new seal rolls right in. Oil it up a bit and pay attention where the lip is on the old seal. It can be installed backwards.
the real pain is taking the suspension apart to get oil pan off
Sound's like a job. Those rear and front seals are never any fun. Good luck with the job. Russ.
You are right there. I disconnected some of my steering to get the oil pan out.
Bruce, I just ran across this thread.
Have you done the rear main seal on your car now?
If so, I have some questions.
Terry, have you replaced the rear seal yourself?
I’m getting ready to do this job myself on my ‘69 RR 383. Sounds like a job that is tricky to do right.
I’ve bought a rope seal & a VITON (“rubber style”) seal. I’m not sure which I might want to use. It sounds like the rope seals used to work great, but they need to be “packed” into the seal groove, which isn’t possible with the crank installed (I’m going to do this with my engine in the car).
The “rubber” (or neoprene?) seals are said to not seal well around the crank, because of the poor alignment of the seal retainer in the block (the OEM rope seals made up for this by “swelling” into place around the crank for Chrysler).
Has anyone here had good success replacing their rear main seal with the engine in the car (crank installed)? Is the “neoprene/rubber” (VITON) seal the way to go? They seal ok, despite the Chrysler misaligned manufacturing/machining?