Summit Ignition Kit 851005 (RB)

[72RR440]

New to this so any help would be appreciated. Started to replace the old dist. coil. ecu and ballast resistor with all the new parts in this kit. Noticed a couple of things though. My old ballast resistor has 4 connectors and the new one only has 2. Also do I still use the old condenser that connects to the + side of the coil or can I get rid of that.

 

[Russ69Runner]

I would call summit and get the rite blast resistor. Two wire is for the older model car's. Is your runner a 73 or so they changed the resistor. Probably because the alternator put out more current. Hope this help's. Keep the condenser you will still need it.

 

[Big John]

The difference is in the ECU. The older style ECU had 5 pins. The new style has 4 pins and does not have to use the dual ballast resistor.

Basically, it works like this... With the old ECU, you turned the ignition key to "start" and the current ran through one side (.5 ohm) of the ballast. This limited the current slightly but still more current passed than when in "run". The car starts, you release the key into "run" position and the current runs through the the other side (5 ohms) of the resistor. This limits the current even more.

With the new ECU, with the key in "start" there is no current passing through the ballast resistor. Key in "run" and the current passes through the (1.2 ohms) resistor.

So.... You need to wire your car correctly for the new system. It will run the way it is, but it's not optimal. You also need to get rid of the POS scotch-lok garbage that is splicing the wire.

Regarding the condenser, yes, keep it. It will help prevent radio static, especially on the AM band.

 

[Big John]

4 pin wiring:



5 Pin:

 

[72RR440]

Thanks for the help. It's a 72 RR that has been sitting in a garage for 24 yrs. Its going to need a lot of "stuff"

 

[Russ69Runner]

It is always grate to see another runner being brought back to life. The car I am working on was striped in side. So having to buy every thing to put it back into shape. Wish you luck on your project. Hope you have fun working on getting this runner on the road again. Russ.

 

[Big John]

Let me ask this question.... Since your car would have already had this conversion done (points to electronic), is there an issue with the existing parts? The reason I ask is that if this was an older Mopar Performance/Direct Connection conversion, the quality of the existing parts will be heads above the Chinese junk that Summit sells.

 

[72RR440]

Looking at the numbers on the fender tag it shows N23 If I'm reading that correctly that would be a factory installed electronic ignition.

 

[72RR440]

The new ecu I got is the 4 wire version. Big John you say wire it correctly but this is not optimal. Is there a better way to wire it ?

 

[Big John]

Looking at the numbers on the fender tag it shows N23 If I'm reading that correctly that would be a factory installed electronic ignition.

OK, so replacing the original electronic ignition.

The new ecu I got is the 4 wire version. Big John you say wire it correctly but this is not optimal. Is there a better way to wire it ?

Just as I said, It will run just fine the way it is, no changes to the wiring at all... Leave the dual ballast resistor and wiring in place, but it's not optimal to do it that way.

The Summit crap isn't what I would call "optimal" anyway.

Bottom line, did the car run the way it is? Was there an issue that you have made you want to replace everything?

 

[72RR440]

Biggest issue was that the car sat for 24 yrs. A lot of the wiring under the hood had disintegrated. First thing I did was replace fuel tank, sending unit, fuel pump, fuel lines and fuel filter. Finally started get fuel to the carb. still would not start. so i figured the next step would be ignition. That being said I have already replaced with new 4 wire ecu, dist and 2 post ballast. Only thing having trouble is tracking down some broken wires. The way I'm reading the schematic is Start and + from the coil go to 1 post on the ballast and the ECU, alternator, and voltage reg go to the Run post on the ballast. I'm new to this so thanks again for answering my questions.

 

[dmartin]

Man I would get an ECU box, voltage regulator and coil for Mancini Racing it comes with info and works great and also start replacing the wiring harnesses from Year One they are pricy but I’d rather pay a lot than to watch all your hard work and dreams go up in smoke, I mean that’s my opinion and I welcome yours!

 

[72RR440]

I don't think I need a complete wiring harness. It just looks a little rough under the hood. It looks to me someone tried to band aid ( scotch locks and black tape ) some of the wiring a few years back and gave up. Just looking for some help on getting it correct. I already installed new ecu and coil. waiting on voltage regulator to show up.

 

[Coyote]

When it comes to replacing wiring, Qbird has been capable and kind enuff to wire my old ‘55 and the Satellite for me. He likes hassles! Both were done with Painless kits. Work great!

He used a Haywire kit in his bird and imo it’s superb and the company has moved operations to suburban Columbus.

After their folks helped a stranded fellow club member at the Goodguys they went to the top of my supplier list.

A trip through their facility and I’ve now got a great wiring setup for the Stupidbaker!

Can’t reccommend them highly enough! Class operation!