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torsion bar bind

Larry Chilese

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1968 Roadrunner: I replaced all front end components, from tie rods to steering box.
I have removed the drivers side torsion bar. When I go to tighten the torsion bar the steering binds, so something is a miss.
Do the torsion bars need clocked? Could the rebound runner be the culprit-any advice would be appreciate before I tear it down.
 

69hemibeep

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Here are the basics to start with. With the bar adjuster nice and loose the snubber off of the frame that contacts the upper control arm and all the suspension hanging make sure the bar key is all the way down(the part the bar goes into) and insert the bar. The only othe mistake made and is easy to do is to make sure the adjuster bolt goes into the socket on the key. As far as interference you probably have an issue with the moving parts , drag link, pitman or idler arms.
 

Larry Chilese

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I did have an issue with the Pitman arm, a reputable parts supplier send me an incorrect Pitman arm which bound up the tie rods on the oil tank. He swore it was correct and I knew nothing (which is close to the truth}. I found the correct one and that problem is solved.
What piece are you calling the "snubber" and I am not familiar with your statement of "adjuster bolt goes into the socket on the key"
The only torsion bar I've ever installed was on a Jaguar XKE, and it was a no brainer. This is my first "B" body.
 

69hemibeep

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When you jack the front of the car up the upper control arm will come down and hit the frame if the snubber or rubber bumper is missing. That needs to be removed before jacking the car up in order to put the bar in correctly. It can be done with the snubber but it is a hassle the control arm really needs to come all the way down. Now if you look up the lower control arm where the adjuster bolt is you will see a round cup that the round end of the bolt rides in, that needs to be rotated down as far as possible to get the bar clocked properly. When you start adjusting the bar make sure that ball and cup are together.
 
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