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valve adjustments

sixgunrunner68

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So I was adjusting my valves the other day and for the most part everything was cool. What I noticed though was that any of the valves that needed adjusting were intake valves. All of the exhaust were ok. They were no more than about .002" out but I was wondering if this was the norm. Any input?
 

BBillyC

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Do you have stronger springs on the intakes, which may have cause some wear....bigger valves sometime = stiffer springs
 

george68hemirr

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BBillyC said:
Do you have stronger springs on the intakes, which may have cause some wear....bigger valves sometime = stiffer springs
good question marty....billy has the answer :thumbsup:
 

69hemibeep

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That may have been done on purpose. I know on my hemi the intake and exhaust are adjusted differently. What does your cam call for
 

ACME A12

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69hemibeep said:
That may have been done on purpose. I know on my hemi the intake and exhaust are adjusted differently. What does your cam call for

I pondered that too...

I was also thinking that I can't recall ever following a cam card for valve lash in my life... :lol:
I always run them tighter...don't like a noisy valve train and I'm never looking for more on the bottom end... :D

:jester:
 

sixgunrunner68

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I am running larger stainless steel valves and they are a little heavy compared to some. Good thought, that may be why. The springs are the same for intake and exhaust. It's a pretty loose cam .028" on the intake and .032" on the exhaust. I do adjust them tight on the numbers though. I had about four valves out and all the others were good.
 

69hemibeep

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sixgunrunner68 said:
I am running larger stainless steel valves and they are a little heavy compared to some. Good thought, that may be why. The springs are the same for intake and exhaust. It's a pretty loose cam .028" on the intake and .032" on the exhaust. I do adjust them tight on the numbers though. I had about four valves out and all the others were good.
Cams are one of the few things I follow instructions on :popcorn:
 

ACME A12

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sixgunrunner68 said:
I am running larger stainless steel valves and they are a little heavy compared to some. Good thought, that may be why. The springs are the same for intake and exhaust. It's a pretty loose cam .028" on the intake and .032" on the exhaust. I do adjust them tight on the numbers though. I had about four valves out and all the others were good.

By most accounts you can run -.008" to + .004" from the suggested lash. I guarantee you I'd be running .020" and .024" on that baby. Anything around .030" sounds like mechanical chaos to me and I don't like it. JMHO.
 

69hemibeep

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ACME A12 said:
sixgunrunner68 said:
I am running larger stainless steel valves and they are a little heavy compared to some. Good thought, that may be why. The springs are the same for intake and exhaust. It's a pretty loose cam .028" on the intake and .032" on the exhaust. I do adjust them tight on the numbers though. I had about four valves out and all the others were good.

By most accounts you can run -.008" to + .004" from the suggested lash. I guarantee you I'd be running .020" and .024" on that baby. Anything around .030" sounds like mechanical chaos to me and I don't like it. JMHO.
I like it and the world is flat :thumbsup:
 

69hemibeep

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ACME A12 said:
69hemibeep said:
I like it and the world is flat :thumbsup:
What does this have to do with starters...? :lol:
Just another old school sound I don't want to loose. Gear reduction starters and rattling lifters :cheers:
 

A31PKG

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Tighter=performance
Looser=longevity
A noisey valvetrain is actually healthier, in that the valve seats firmly enough to dissipate heat to the cylinder head. 90% of the time when a burned valve has come into the shop, it's due to a tight valve clearance. The tight side of the spec window is fine, but tighter than that, and you may be asking for trouble down the road. Of course, with our cars it's not that big of an issue whith richer mixtures, bigger valves, and general less usage, but just thought I'd throw that out there... :thumbsup:
 

mcmopar

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69hemibeep said:
ACME A12 said:
69hemibeep said:
I like it and the world is flat :thumbsup:
What does this have to do with starters...? :lol:
Just another old school sound I don't want to loose. Gear reduction starters and rattling lifters :cheers:
Yeah - if you hear my car it sounds like a solid lifter car even though it isn't. The roller rockers impart that mechanical sound. The first time I ran the car I thought the engine was coming apart but I'm used to it now.
 

Roadcuda

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A31PKG said:
Tighter=performance
Looser=longevity
A noisey valvetrain is actually healthier, in that the valve seats firmly enough to dissipate heat to the cylinder head. 90% of the time when a burned valve has come into the shop, it's due to a tight valve clearance. The tight side of the spec window is fine, but tighter than that, and you may be asking for trouble down the road. Of course, with our cars it's not that big of an issue whith richer mixtures, bigger valves, and general less usage, but just thought I'd throw that out there... :thumbsup:
My car doesn't have any lifter noise. None at all. So are you saying that could cause me problems at some point in time?
 

mcmopar

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Not if you are using the factory valvetrain - it is non-adjustable. This is only for us masochists who use adjustable valvetrains (rocker arms).
 
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