• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

clutch

rollie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2013
Messages
52
Reaction score
1
Installing 550 hp stroker motor 383. Have stock clutch and stock A833 transmission. Worried that clutch may be a problem. Any suggestions appreciated.
 

inri

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
447
Reaction score
0
Installing 550 hp stroker motor 383. Have stock clutch and stock A833 transmission. Worried that clutch may be a problem. Any suggestions appreciated.[/QUOTE
Rollie,

What are your torque figures? If there near 550+ I would recommend an upgraded clutch.
 

rollie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2013
Messages
52
Reaction score
1
Thanks for your comments.........but.......thats one for yes and one for no..........any suggestions on whar size/make of clutch will work best. Thanks!
 

4spd69RR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
990
Reaction score
7
Location
Winter Springs, FL.
I have an A833 18 spline in mine. granted I'm not producing 550 hp with my engine, however, the factory spec clutch and trans will hold up fine with your 550hp engine. Just watch how many burn out you do.
 
Last edited:

Budnicks

I will apologize to everyone in advance
Joined
Nov 9, 2013
Messages
549
Reaction score
26
Location
Sonora Ca.
McCleod, Hays, Zoom, Center Force, Mopar Performance, Depends on your preferences & your budget, how the car will be actually used, will it have slicks or drag radials or be raced ??, then you should step up some IMHFO... There's many brands out there to upgrade with, but a stock clutch can & will work just fine, but for how long your guess is as good as mine... They're not legal on a drag strip/racetrack with slicks or drag radials thou... I'd bet a good performance clutch from any of the companies listed, will work a little better, for a little longer, there has been many improvements in clutch technology over the last 40+ years... If it's for track use, then get SFI approved, Flywheel & clutch, driveline safety loop & scatter shield/bell housing is also mandatory, if you run slicks or drag radials on any sanctioned track, you will need wheel stud/nuts that are open & stud threads sticking out past the nuts & after market SFI hardened axles or they wont let you run... Your 23 spline trans & universal may be the weak link thou, an 18 spline is a letter better, some really good 2790 or 1350 universals are a must too, depends on what yoke &/or rear axle you have... My suggestions are, Probably overkill, but that's me... good luck whom or what ever you decide on...
 
Last edited:

george68hemirr

I think you guys are full of shit.
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
12,645
Reaction score
69
Location
hudson valley ny
What clutch and pressure plate is made in america?......i have a buddy with a 67 chevelle/396 and he went thru 3 clutches and plates till he found one with out chattering taking off.....i am pretty sure most all clutches and pressure plates are made in china...he went with ram clutch pack
 

droptop

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
4,000
Reaction score
727
Location
Southern Indiana
I think it comes down to what tires you will be running. A wide sticky tire will need more clutch. :cents:
 

Big John

Sit back, relax Don't bitch about the cigar smoke
Joined
Sep 8, 2008
Messages
5,057
Reaction score
79
OK... I just went through and deleted some of the posts on this thread.

You guys that had posts that were deleted.... You know why I did and you're big boys, I'm not going to explain it to you. This is a tech thread and I refuse to delete or lock this type of thread.

Keep it civil..... I only warn once.

The rest of you... nothing to see here... move along...
 

70rr2go

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
glendora, ca.
I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but I'm ready to buy one also. I like the dual disc that McLeod has "rsx" any imput on this. also when should I go with there flywheel instead of the stock one. the 22lb is what I might try? 505ci apr 575-625 hp. thanks. hot street only.
 

rollie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2013
Messages
52
Reaction score
1
Looks like the jury is out on this one. Perhaps some more detaill will help. The car has 15x7 rims and 60 series radials. Wont be going to the track any time soon, but will be adding the safety stuff , loop, pinion snubber, hd springs etc. Will be street driven but wont be able to resist some burnouts forever...you guys know how it is. Existing clutch is stock as well as rear end. To look at clutch options (If needed at all), I will need stock clutch detail. Any comments appreciated. Car is mainly a show car but a ton of go is also being added.
 

69hemibeep

Sponge Bob Square Wheels
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Messages
22,207
Reaction score
2,440
Location
AZ Desert,
I ran 10" slicks on my first hemi car with a heavy duty Borg and Beck clutch with no problem, Hays , McLeod or Ram. I'm not big on centerforce
 

quikbird

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
3,271
Reaction score
1,079
Location
Sarasota, florida
I currently have the mccleod twin disk in my rr. works great. I had a problem burning up clutches and this seems to be working pretty good. I went with a replacement flywheel. I think a ram that is a little lighter than stock but still a steel one.
 

mcmopar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
3,438
Reaction score
9
Location
Orlando, FL
Guys if you are upgrading power by 75-100 hp or more you don't want the stock flywheel, you'll want a quality unit - especially if you plan to be "enthusiastic" with the car. I'm using a Centerforce sfi approved billet steel flywheel and a Lakewood safety bellhousing guaranteed to contain a 7000 rpm clutch explosion. The old flywheel was a stock unit and I could see spider cracks all around the center of the hub radiating outward from center. Not good. That flywheel was almost 40 years old. Now imagine if that was your old flywheel and it let go at 6500 rpm or so. It would slice through the old cast bellhousing like a hot knife through butter and take your legs/feet along with it. If you are going to build lots of power think SAFETY and get the appropriate parts to keep you and others safe. don't skimp on the good stuff!
 
Back
Top