In the process of elimination I changed out the valve covers with cork gaskets and have driven the car and run it to operating temperature and so far leak free. A buddy told me if you don’t look under it,it’s not leaking
I finally had to retire my factory Rad last year. Was going to get it rodded out but the cost and risk wasn’t worth it. Put in a more efficient aluminum that looks factory and the temps are down and manageable.
The desert is heating up now so the car will only see am temps or a cool day@80-90ish...
I have 383 in the RR that after driving or just running it up to operating temp next day will show an oil drip hanging off the bottom of the flywheel inspection cover plate..weep hole. Had the rear main done less than 300mi ago. I guess in some cases that does not matter. So I have been trying...
Have 70 RR with what I believe is the original fender tag. This car is not #’s matching but that’s ok! It’s a driver. The vin# on the dash and core support are the same. There is a mark or stamping on the fender tag that I hope someone can figure out. It looks like a H on its side.
Any ideas...
Let me just start with the fact this issue has been talked to death,but I saw a YT video the other day and the gentleman has way more experience with the issue than me. He had a 440 built up a little and was showing his kit for the rear main seal from Mancini. So what he was explaining was that...
Don’t know if this is somewhat relevant,but I have a fairly new NSW that has a O-ring on it and I have trans fluid leaking somewhere above the attached pan. I think it might be coming from either the band adjusting bolt and or the most forward trans cooler line to the radiator.
Also there’s a...
So right on the size and 2-contact connection. It would seem that one of Mopars common denominators was the #2,door jamb switch and several other electrical connections Oh and let’s not forget the dreaded 2piece rear main seal…Bad idea!!
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