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Creaking noise

Terry Hauck

Terry Hauck

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I have a creaking or popping sound when I take off. I can't figure it out. It didn't do it with the 383. Happens during normal take-offs, not a hard launch. The clutch is the same one I had with the 383, maybe 1500 miles on it. Any ideas?
 
V.R.D

V.R.D

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spray wd=40 on and IN the rubber bushings on the springs. look to see if they are coming apart and check the bolts at the front of the spring make sure the rear are not dry
 
Russ69Runner

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Where does the sound seem to come from or can you tell. Did you check the clutch pedal bushing where the z bar is. Just a thought.
 
Terry Hauck

Terry Hauck

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Russ69Runner said:
Where does the sound seem to come from or can you tell. Did you check the clutch pedal bushing where the z bar is. Just a thought.
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Yes. It seems to be fine. I replaced both sides when I put it back together this time. Sounds more like it is coming from the passenger side front. I'm still checking stuff.
 
Russ69Runner

Russ69Runner

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That is odd. Had my front grill screw's get loose and was hearing a rattle noise. Think it could be a fender bolt or loose k member bolt or something like that. Have you checked the upper control arm bolts. Thinking out of the box. Wish you luck Terry. I have a taping noise while driving down my driveway and found to be the exhaust pipe hitting my torsion bar. This stared after running over part of a semi recap across my lane. So, when doing the new head gaskets will address that problem also. May be new exhaust pipes are in order like stainless steel ones.
 
Terry Hauck

Terry Hauck

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Russ69Runner said:
That is odd. Had my front grill screw's get loose and was hearing a rattle noise. Think it could be a fender bolt or loose k member bolt or something like that. Have you checked the upper control arm bolts. Thinking out of the box. Wish you luck Terry. I have a taping noise while driving down my driveway and found to be the exhaust pipe hitting my torsion bar. This stared after running over part of a semi recap across my lane. So, when doing the new head gaskets will address that problem also. May be new exhaust pipes are in order like stainless steel ones.
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Yeah. These cars are 55 years old now. Rattles and creeks are part of life.
 
Terry Hauck

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Since you guys mention the bushings, it makes sense, especially since I did a front disc brake conversion at the same time I installed the 440. I had to unbolt the lower control arm from the spindle. I wonder if I damaged something. Also, I have a bit of play in the steering even though all the linkage connections are tight. I seem to remember reading that if your bushings are worn you could have steering play. Noises would make sense too. I will check when the weather improves. Thanks for the inputs, guys.
 
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69hemibeep

69hemibeep

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Something to remember about the lower control arm bushings. When changing them out if you use the original rubber style which I prefer leave the pivot nut loose until the ride height is established. Car completely assembled torsion bars adjusted (I let my alignment guy do that to factory specs) then tighten them. If you do them early say the front end in the air or no engine weight you set the steel sleave of the bushing onto the pivot and as you lower the car it starts to tear the rubber bushing. You will notice the car will sag and you have to keep adjusting the torsion bars, thats the rubber in the bushing tearing and you will need new ones. They are designed to move a little as the suspension works.
 
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Terry Hauck

Terry Hauck

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69hemibeep said:
Something to remember about the lower control arm bushings. When changing them out if you use the original rubber style which I prefer leave the pivot nut loose until the ride height is established. Car completely assembled torsion bars adjusted (I let my alignment guy do that to factory specs) then tighten them. If you do them early say the front end in the air or no engine weight you set the steel sleave of the bushing onto the pivot and as you lower the car it starts to tear the rubber bushing. You will notice the car will sag and you have to keep adjusting the torsion bars, thats the rubber in the bushing tearing and you will need new ones. They are designed to move a little as the suspension works.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I will do that.
 
Rapid Transit

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I've used poly LCA busing in daily drivers with no problems for 25 years.
I don't use the strut rod (LCA break reaction rod) poly doughnuts.
The poly ones do not have enough compression in them for me to be comfortable with them.
I've used anti sway bar poly bushings too.
I did notice some squeaking with those in cold weather years ago.
Few years ago I started doing my own alignments with the Fastrax stuff and some plates.
But I've got multiple cars to keep up with.
 
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