Search results for query: *

You may be onto something

In the process of elimination I changed out the valve covers with cork gaskets and have driven the car and run it to operating temperature and so far leak free. A buddy told me if you don’t look under it,it’s not leaking

Welcome!

I finally had to retire my factory Rad last year. Was going to get it rodded out but the cost and risk wasn’t worth it. Put in a more efficient aluminum that looks factory and the temps are down and manageable. The desert is heating up now so the car will only see am temps or a cool day@80-90ish...

DUH!! 180-200* That’s all I got! Stay cool Bro’s!

How many fellow RR boys are out driving in your local summer heat and what is that dash gauge telling you?? Thanks!

Welcome Kevin!! From your neck of the desert

I have 383 in the RR that after driving or just running it up to operating temp next day will show an oil drip hanging off the bottom of the flywheel inspection cover plate..weep hole. Had the rear main done less than 300mi ago. I guess in some cases that does not matter. So I have been trying...

Have 70 RR with what I believe is the original fender tag. This car is not #’s matching but that’s ok! It’s a driver. The vin# on the dash and core support are the same. There is a mark or stamping on the fender tag that I hope someone can figure out. It looks like a H on its side. Any ideas...

I know these have not been around a long time,but have any other owners had any issues yet with the dash or the brain box?? Thanks much!

Let me just start with the fact this issue has been talked to death,but I saw a YT video the other day and the gentleman has way more experience with the issue than me. He had a 440 built up a little and was showing his kit for the rear main seal from Mancini. So what he was explaining was that...

Don’t know if this is somewhat relevant,but I have a fairly new NSW that has a O-ring on it and I have trans fluid leaking somewhere above the attached pan. I think it might be coming from either the band adjusting bolt and or the most forward trans cooler line to the radiator. Also there’s a...

B7 blue-Jamaica blue?

So right on the size and 2-contact connection. It would seem that one of Mopars common denominators was the #2,door jamb switch and several other electrical connections Oh and let’s not forget the dreaded 2piece rear main seal…Bad idea!!

Found them @ MrMoparts...What a Surprise!!!

Anyone have a good plan for sealing the band adjusting bolt above the safety neutral switch? Thought the leak was either from a transmission cooler line or the NSS,but at the highest point is the band bolt,and a dab of oil resistant gasket is not the answer. Sounds simple enough,just don’t want...

I did learn something new about batteries through this that they can show full volts and not start the car. I must have cooked some of the plates inside when my wrong alternator sent 17-18v in to it. Nice to have it solved. Never too late to learn. On to the tranny forum!

You are so right sir!! As for the door jamb switch, I’m working on it. Just need a 2 pin connector and the right size threads in the door jamb. Thanks!

Howdy! It seems the only size and type of door jamb switch for the dome light 70rr is too small in the thread department and only has what appears to be a single contact point. The one in the car had a plastic sleeve running between both contact points which has crumbled and disappeared. The...

Got to the bottom of this issue. I’ll back up a bit and tie this to the digital dash conversion. With the original dash out with the troublesome ammeter gauge disconnected i get a more true accurate volts reading and with the alternator that was put in the car by a previous owner,the volt gauge...