Search results

A manual steering shaft is 3 inches longer than a power steering shaft. Most likely your's is collapsed.

69 383 with headers and pwr steering, couldn't get enough room unbolting motor mount. Had to drop K member

The Canvas Shoppe in Michigan. At skiboatcovers.com. Got one from them for my 57 Retractable 30 years ago, fits like a glove and still looks brand new.

Are you experiencing an overheating issue? Is your current system stock?

Ohm one of your spare sending units throughout the range. Takes gauge out of picture.

Put your ohm meter on the sending unit, outside the tank. Raise the float slowly, does the resistance level raise or lower smoothly? It's very possible the wiper on the arm is losing contact part way during the sweep.

What happens at the gauge as you raise and lower the float?

OK. That's good. I would pull sending unit, hook signal wire to it, ground fuel line on sender and with key on operate float rod by hand and watch gauge. Sounds like you've got a crap sender, which is very common.

You shouldn't have 12 volts at the sender, it should be a pulsing 5 volts via the Limiter on the back of the cluster. You need the ground to complete the circuit. The gauge works by the resistance to ground thru the sending changing.

Disconnect signal wire from tank, hook up voltmeter, how many volts do you read with key on?

Replaced mine with a reproduction from ABC Moparts. Looks and fits great. https://abcmoparts.com/shop

I have Hedman headers on 383 '69. Ended up dropping the K frame, only way I could get enough room to slide it out.

Glenray Radiators

You dont need an aluminum radiator with your setup. The original can be cleaned out or core replaced and it will be fine. I run a stock radiator on my 69 w/AC and never get above 205 on a 100 degree day. No need to buy new original from Classic.

It helps because it takes load off the connectors within the bulkhead, but your Ammeter is not going to ready accurately the way you have it wired

What 72 is saying is, to get your Ammeter to read properly instead of connecting the "extra" 10 gauge wire to the starter relay connect that wire to the same side of the Ammeter you connected the RED harness wire to. Also, when most people do the this bypass they use 8 gauge wire.

I would get the engine harness at the same time. They are somewhat specific on ignition type. I would also pull the cluster, it will be easier to install the new harness (because you can see more) and you can better inspect the Ammeter. I prefer having a functioning Ammeter so it needs...

No, hooking up a working Ammeter will not fix the problem. That bulkhead needs addressed. M&H replacement harnesses are pretty much exact OEM and easy to install.

That should be enough to fire the plugs. Move your meter to the negative side of the coil and see if voltage fluctuates when cranking. If so the primary side of your ignition is good. Look for issues with coil wire, dist cap, etc.

Regardless of ignition type you need voltage to the coil, the distributor just opens and closes the circuit. Depending upon type of ignition it might want 12 volts or less to the coil, that's why I say temporarily jumper 12 volts to the coil. How much voltage do you have at the coil now with...