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Got some new window sweeps for the 70rr and it is a post car. Should be doing the vertical window channel guides as well,but do I have to remove the vertical window guide with the wing window or can I put the sweeps in without removing it?…Thanks!!

That’s how I kinda think about it. No doubt it does work,but like a bandaid. Sooner or later ya gotta rip that sucker off and heal it right. I feel like it was a “snake oil” day. I put some of that additive that lowers your coolant temp. We’ll see!

Thanks! Is it the $100 version or the $400 one?

Thanks! I will check it out!

That looks nice! Is that a Classic industries version?

Saw those. Says they don’t fit the 383 block,but it’s not a bad temp fix if I find the right fit.

Is the finish on it have a similar texture to the covered one and is there a cheesy kind of sheen? Mine would be black which we all know will show any imperfections. Pics please if you can! Thanks in advance!!

This is probably a very backyard way of doing things,but has anybody ever tried JB weld (wet) with any success? I know it’s not the best method,just trying to buy some time.

You guys are right about cost! Classic has them for $400…Wow! Is the layover cap for these a hard plastic? And how is it attached? Looks like I’m adding something else to my list! Thanks!

Drove the car out of the shop yesterday and got home and saw this! Repair or Replace? Is it a tuff replace? Thanks!

Kept thinking that the reason for the oil pan gasket area all the way around showing wet was possibly a bad install on the gaskets. But the fuel pump gasket and bolt underneath it were found be leaking and that fuel was wetting the whole contact area of the gaskets and pan. Gotta take it out for...

I saw those and that would be a little more controlled of a drain. Also heard a good idea to coat the backside of the plug with rtv and let them cure a bit then no liquid comes in contact with metal or brass of the plug. Right now it’s a crap shoot with the stop leak pills that they look for...

I’ve also heard it would be best to pull the motor and do them all and any other stuff that needs attention. I’m hearing 8hrs of labor,said that was because they had to be supper careful with the paint. The plugs I can get to and install I may take a shot at it when I feel like making a huge...

I have got for sure a couple of freeze plugs that are very questionable. One of them is behind the 383 starter and maybe one over on the passenger side,but not all are bad. I guess my question is: Is it possible to pull out the bad ones while the motor is in? Just can’t see any time in the near...

I guess that 180-200 here in the desert in traffic/stop& go with a 50yr old radiator is as good as it gets till the change over. If cost gets to be an obsession I may just go with a factory replacement 22” copper/brass.

Seems I remember back in 1975 when I had the exact car that these Mopars ran on the warm side. Sitting in traffic or stop lights in Tucson it is going to get pretty warm. Running down the road the temp would be good in the 180-200* range. The eventual radiator swap should be able to handle that...

Took that temp of course with the only cooling was the fan pulling air thru the radiator in the garage. At 194* it might drop a bit on a drive with airflow,but I can not remove the cap to check so all I have is the laser light readings.

I have here some temp readings with the engine at operating temp w/radiator cap off. 1.Dash gauge-220* 2.Lower hose@water pump-137* 3.Lower Rad.hose-130* 4.Upper rad.hose-172* 5.Sending unit-169* 6.Coolant temp@rad.cap-194* Man! That’s a lot of different #’s Hope the experts can make something...

There are other options to the radiator issues…take out the old and do a soak and flush,buy a griffin,or maybe a radiator from Northern. I heard they were the next best to the high dollar Griffin’s $1k vs $600 We’ll see!

No cheap here!!! Sell a guitar,buy a radiator…Griffin!!