mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Yes, you could still use that spring on the 268H with no machining issues.
Cam selection?
- Thread starter a6t9vette
- Start date
So other then the parts I need to do the intake swap im assuming I need:
Cam
Cam Break in Lube
New Springs
Head Gaskets
Spark plugs
Hyd. lifters (assume you recommend Comp Cams?)
Misc gaskets for water pump, etc.
Do I need:
New retainers?
New rocker arms (assume optional)
Am I missing something obvious here?
Cam
Cam Break in Lube
New Springs
Head Gaskets
Spark plugs
Hyd. lifters (assume you recommend Comp Cams?)
Misc gaskets for water pump, etc.
Do I need:
New retainers?
New rocker arms (assume optional)
Am I missing something obvious here?
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
No need for head gaskets unless you plan on removing the heads; and the cam break in lube is included with the cam (although it is nice to have a little extra on hand). You will need a new valley pan intake manifold gasket and a carb to manifold gasket though. You can get intake valley pan gasket with the heat risers blocked from Jegs for $25.99 - and yes, you will need water pump and valve cover gaskets along with a tube of Black RTV silicon.
Get the Comp recommended 911-16 springs. The lifters will be included in the cam/lifter package (more economical if you buy them together in a kit). I would definitely get new retainers and locks along with a set of valve stem seals (umbrella type) and would definitely lean toward new rockers. The originals will have taken some wear over the years and the additional spring pressures from the new springs will certainly stress them more than the stock springs. A new set of MP hydraulic rockers is a good, economical solution which will allow you to use your stock pushrods. If you decide on going with roller rockers you should get new chrome rocker shafts and tubular pushrods. This isn't absolutely necessary though.
So the rundown would be something like this (I priced most everything from Mancini Racing. You may do slightly better if you shop around):
Comp Cams 268H cam and lifter kit from Mancini Racing - part #COMCL21-223-4 $209.95 (includes break-in lube)
Mopar Performance valve stem seals from Mancini Racing - part #MOPP4120492 $15.95
Mopar Performance stamped Hydraulic Rocker Arm kit from Mancini Racing
part #MOPP4529743 $84.95
Comp Valve springs from Mancini Racing - part #COM911-16 $94.95
Valve Retainers and Locks - its always a good idea to look at your valve stems to see how many lock grooves there are. According to Mancini Racing most stock engines will have multi grooves (2-3). These are available at most NAPA stores along with a matching set of retainers which would work fine. If your originals look ok it would probably be ok to use them but since they are about 40 years old it is cheap insurance to replace them. $50-$60 est.
Intake manifold gasket from Jeg's - Fel Pro #375-1215 $25.99
Plus carb gasket, valve cover gaskets water pump gaskets and RTV sealant. $25.00 est.
Total build cost: About $520+/- without including shipping costs, taxes, etc..
Note: Additional cost for a new intake manifold will be as follows (all prices from Mancini Racing - you can shop around to see if you can do better):
Mopar Performance M1 Dual Plane - part #MOPP4529117 $234.95
Mopar Performance M1 Single Plane - part # MOPP4529462 $239.95
Edelbrock 383 Performer Dual Plane - part #EDE2186 $205.95
Edelbrock 383 Performer RPM Dual Plane - part #EDE7186 $235.95
note: if you go with this intake manifold be aware that your stock air cleaner assembly will hit the bottom of the hood. You will need a drop base air cleaner assembly such as this one from Jegs: JEGS #555-50004 $39.99. Also note: Offset and drop base style air cleaners will only work on Holley style carbs. Will not fit Edelbrock, Carter or Rochester carbs so if you have a factory AVS carb this drop base air cleaner assembly will not work. If you plan on keeping the factory carb and air cleaner assembly I would not recommended this intake manifold.
Edelbrock Torker 383 Single Plane - part #EDE3010 $239.95 - note: you can get decent examples of this manifold on ebay or at swap meets for $100 and sometimes less all day long. Personally, I wouldn't buy one new.
Edelbrock DP-4B dual plane. This manifold is out of production but was, and still is, a very nice manifold for the 383. It makes almost as much power as the Performer RPM and is low enough that you can use your stock carb and air cleaner assembly. I bought one years ago at a swap meet for $50 in great condition. I have seen them in the $100 range on ebay and at swap meets. For the money, I'd recommend getting one of these intakes, having it media blasted and then paint it the color of your engine and go! It will be cheaper than a new intake and will perform somewhere between the MP M1 dual plane or the Performer 383 and the Performer RPM. They are a great intake for the 383 and still quite plentiful. I've used this intake and have been very pleased with it.
Get the Comp recommended 911-16 springs. The lifters will be included in the cam/lifter package (more economical if you buy them together in a kit). I would definitely get new retainers and locks along with a set of valve stem seals (umbrella type) and would definitely lean toward new rockers. The originals will have taken some wear over the years and the additional spring pressures from the new springs will certainly stress them more than the stock springs. A new set of MP hydraulic rockers is a good, economical solution which will allow you to use your stock pushrods. If you decide on going with roller rockers you should get new chrome rocker shafts and tubular pushrods. This isn't absolutely necessary though.
So the rundown would be something like this (I priced most everything from Mancini Racing. You may do slightly better if you shop around):
Comp Cams 268H cam and lifter kit from Mancini Racing - part #COMCL21-223-4 $209.95 (includes break-in lube)
Mopar Performance valve stem seals from Mancini Racing - part #MOPP4120492 $15.95
Mopar Performance stamped Hydraulic Rocker Arm kit from Mancini Racing
part #MOPP4529743 $84.95
Comp Valve springs from Mancini Racing - part #COM911-16 $94.95
Valve Retainers and Locks - its always a good idea to look at your valve stems to see how many lock grooves there are. According to Mancini Racing most stock engines will have multi grooves (2-3). These are available at most NAPA stores along with a matching set of retainers which would work fine. If your originals look ok it would probably be ok to use them but since they are about 40 years old it is cheap insurance to replace them. $50-$60 est.
Intake manifold gasket from Jeg's - Fel Pro #375-1215 $25.99
Plus carb gasket, valve cover gaskets water pump gaskets and RTV sealant. $25.00 est.
Total build cost: About $520+/- without including shipping costs, taxes, etc..
Note: Additional cost for a new intake manifold will be as follows (all prices from Mancini Racing - you can shop around to see if you can do better):
Mopar Performance M1 Dual Plane - part #MOPP4529117 $234.95
Mopar Performance M1 Single Plane - part # MOPP4529462 $239.95
Edelbrock 383 Performer Dual Plane - part #EDE2186 $205.95
Edelbrock 383 Performer RPM Dual Plane - part #EDE7186 $235.95
note: if you go with this intake manifold be aware that your stock air cleaner assembly will hit the bottom of the hood. You will need a drop base air cleaner assembly such as this one from Jegs: JEGS #555-50004 $39.99. Also note: Offset and drop base style air cleaners will only work on Holley style carbs. Will not fit Edelbrock, Carter or Rochester carbs so if you have a factory AVS carb this drop base air cleaner assembly will not work. If you plan on keeping the factory carb and air cleaner assembly I would not recommended this intake manifold.
Edelbrock Torker 383 Single Plane - part #EDE3010 $239.95 - note: you can get decent examples of this manifold on ebay or at swap meets for $100 and sometimes less all day long. Personally, I wouldn't buy one new.
Edelbrock DP-4B dual plane. This manifold is out of production but was, and still is, a very nice manifold for the 383. It makes almost as much power as the Performer RPM and is low enough that you can use your stock carb and air cleaner assembly. I bought one years ago at a swap meet for $50 in great condition. I have seen them in the $100 range on ebay and at swap meets. For the money, I'd recommend getting one of these intakes, having it media blasted and then paint it the color of your engine and go! It will be cheaper than a new intake and will perform somewhere between the MP M1 dual plane or the Performer 383 and the Performer RPM. They are a great intake for the 383 and still quite plentiful. I've used this intake and have been very pleased with it.
Thanks for all the great info. I really appriciate you talking the time to provide all the info you did. Ive actually been looking for an Intake on E-bay for quite sometime now. Theres a DP4B thats local to me that im hoping to pick up. Now I just have to get up the nerve to rip into the motor. The intake swap is one thing, the cam is a whole new game for me....
I figure I will be putting the car up in the air right after Thanksgiving since I dont imagine and "warm" days in the north after that. So I do have alittle bit of time to get up the nerve.
PS all of this conversation and I dont know your name.....
Thanks again,
Bob
I figure I will be putting the car up in the air right after Thanksgiving since I dont imagine and "warm" days in the north after that. So I do have alittle bit of time to get up the nerve.
PS all of this conversation and I dont know your name.....
Thanks again,
Bob
Big John
Sit back, relax Don't bitch about the cigar smoke
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a6t9vette said:
Just about everybody here is named John, Steve or Bob....
:leave:
Big John said:
So true... :lmao:
mcmopar
Well-Known Member
Hey Bob - no problem - my name is John BTW (How true, Big!).
One thing I forgot to tell you to get is a timing cover gasket and a timing cover seal for the crank and you may also want to order a double roller timing chain and sprockets to replace your existing setup. This one from Jeg's will do just fine: Cloyes #220-9-1104. Its $45.99 - cheap insurance to make sure your timing stays right on the money. I also highly recommend that you get a a hardened fuel pump rod from Hughes Engines (http://www.hughesengines.com). The stocker in your engine won't stand up to the new cam - trust me - I learned this lesson the hard way. The part number is HUG10010 and it is $29.00 - DO NOT FORGET THIS ITEM!!! It is most critical.
Grab a Chilton's manual or even a shop manual and read it several times to get the feel for the tear down and reassembly procedures. Also, if you have a digital camera take PLENTY of pics during the tear down process so you can refer to them when it comes time to put everything back together - and get a torque wrench so you can properly torque everything back down.
In a nutshell you'll need to:
Set the timing marks to Top Dead Center
Drain and remove the radiator
Remove the power steering pump (if you have power steering).
Remove the alternator, fan and fan pulley.
Remove the water pump housing (the pump can stay in the housing)
Remove the carb and intake manifold
Pull the crank pulley off - use a puller and its a breeze.
Remove the timing cover
Remove the cam and crank pulleys
Remove the valve covers
Remove the rocker shafts and place them someplace so that you know which set came from which side
Remove the pushrods and place them in order so that you know where they came from in order to put them back in the same place
Remove the lifters from the cam
Remove the distributor
Remove the intermediate shaft below the distributor - notice that the notch for the distributor runs parallel to the camshaft
Remove the fuel pump and fuel pump rod
Thread in a long bolt into the camshaft and use it to help pull the cam. Be Careful in pulling the cam! The cam bearings in the block can be damaged if you go banging into them with the cam.
Now that everything is all torn down follow the cam manufacturer's instructions on how to install the cam.
When installing the new crank sprocket use the 0 degree slot
Once the cam is back in, replace the intermediate shaft back in place, place the fuel pump rod and fuel pump back in place and replace everthing else. Of course you'll need to scrape off old gaskets and put the new ones back in place. Use some Ultra RTV Blue, Red or Black to hold them in place and help provide some additional sealing.
Read, read, read and if you have any questions we'll be here to help.
One thing I forgot to tell you to get is a timing cover gasket and a timing cover seal for the crank and you may also want to order a double roller timing chain and sprockets to replace your existing setup. This one from Jeg's will do just fine: Cloyes #220-9-1104. Its $45.99 - cheap insurance to make sure your timing stays right on the money. I also highly recommend that you get a a hardened fuel pump rod from Hughes Engines (http://www.hughesengines.com). The stocker in your engine won't stand up to the new cam - trust me - I learned this lesson the hard way. The part number is HUG10010 and it is $29.00 - DO NOT FORGET THIS ITEM!!! It is most critical.
Grab a Chilton's manual or even a shop manual and read it several times to get the feel for the tear down and reassembly procedures. Also, if you have a digital camera take PLENTY of pics during the tear down process so you can refer to them when it comes time to put everything back together - and get a torque wrench so you can properly torque everything back down.
In a nutshell you'll need to:
Set the timing marks to Top Dead Center
Drain and remove the radiator
Remove the power steering pump (if you have power steering).
Remove the alternator, fan and fan pulley.
Remove the water pump housing (the pump can stay in the housing)
Remove the carb and intake manifold
Pull the crank pulley off - use a puller and its a breeze.
Remove the timing cover
Remove the cam and crank pulleys
Remove the valve covers
Remove the rocker shafts and place them someplace so that you know which set came from which side
Remove the pushrods and place them in order so that you know where they came from in order to put them back in the same place
Remove the lifters from the cam
Remove the distributor
Remove the intermediate shaft below the distributor - notice that the notch for the distributor runs parallel to the camshaft
Remove the fuel pump and fuel pump rod
Thread in a long bolt into the camshaft and use it to help pull the cam. Be Careful in pulling the cam! The cam bearings in the block can be damaged if you go banging into them with the cam.
Now that everything is all torn down follow the cam manufacturer's instructions on how to install the cam.
When installing the new crank sprocket use the 0 degree slot
Once the cam is back in, replace the intermediate shaft back in place, place the fuel pump rod and fuel pump back in place and replace everthing else. Of course you'll need to scrape off old gaskets and put the new ones back in place. Use some Ultra RTV Blue, Red or Black to hold them in place and help provide some additional sealing.
Read, read, read and if you have any questions we'll be here to help.