Linkage Bushings

[RR383]

Beware...just got my '70 rr out of the shop after a week of an in depth period of troubleshooting. Lets go back in time just a bit....when I bought the car a few months ago I knew there was something missing with its overall performance. Prognosis, the car was shifting into 3rd gear almost immediately upon acceleration. Bogging it down, etc. I also knew the timing was off...advice...only have total timing performed...its the only true way to set your advance.
The shop I employed immediately discovered at some point in the cars 97,000 mi original condition there where so called mechanics tweaking here and tweaking there but each and every one of them never hit the mark.
All of my linkage connections bushings were all but gone worn plum out...the bell cranks were jimmied/bent to possibly correct kick-down linkage. At some point in the cars life someone lengthened the original carb linkage rod.
Things corrected...new original MOPAR bushings were installed... one had to be machined and fitted. Timing resolved all in at around 38.5 degrees. Minor idle screw adjustments on my 1406 Edlebrock carb.
Now all factory linkage on my column shift along with linkage to the 727 torqueflite trans are tight and correct.
Very relieved to have this car brought back to life. And I didn't even need the likes of Mark Worman and his ghoules with Graveyard Cars.:yesnod:

 

[stevo]

Hey thats awesome you have it running right.
and are treating it with the respect it deserves.
Mopar had it right all along, keep it Mopar and you will kick but with it.

 

[RR383]

Had the runner out this past Saturday to a local event 45 miles away. Pushed the car a little hard to see what it would do...still has a few minor things that will need addressing. First, the car had a little "run-on" when I turn off the ignition. Second, when crusing at about 50 mph and I snap the pedal hard to the floor to kick in the secondaries...it wants to stumble...ever so slightly...only does this with the car up at speed. I know owning other hotrods it goes with the territory.

 

[Ranger]

My run on problems where solved with a cylinder cleaning. Just put a vacuum hose on one of the vacuum ports on the carb, run it up to about 2000 RPM and stick the vacuum hose in a glass of water. That will clean the carbon from your combustion chambers and end your dieseling problem.

What carb are you running? Probably just needs an adjustment.

 

[RR383]

Alright slow down...so you introduced a full glass of water into the combustion chambers via a vacuum hose connected to the base of the carb...interesting. I'm sure you had the block at normal operating temp. Btw, how much carbon buildup did you believe you had?
Now I'm running a 1406 Edlebrock 600 cfm.

 

[Ranger]

Yes, the engine must be at operating temperature. It's the steam that cleans the combustion chamber. It's an old, old trick and works like a charm.

Not sure just how much carbon I had, but it would run on forever when I shut it down (just bought Dec of '14). I had to shut down while letting the clutch out in 1st gear. After the water ingestion, she shuts down as intended, with just a turn of the key.


As for your "stumble", you may need to change your step-up springs. Here is the explanation in the Edelbrock Manual.

"CALIBRATING THE POWER MODE STAGING
The Step-Up function, which moves the Metering Rod to the Power Mode, is controlled by the Step-Up Spring. The base calibration has a spring which “stages” rich at 5" Hg.
If your vehicle has a mid-throttle driveability problem that is encountered as the throttle is gradually opened, but then goes away upon further opening, it may be possible to eliminate the lean spot by using a stronger Step-Up Spring. The available Step-Up Springs are listed in the following chart along with their respective “staging” point. It is best to select a new spring on the basis of vacuum readings, but in the absence of a gauge, try the strongest spring (highest vacuum rating) to see if the problem goes away. If the drive problem is cured by the strong spring, try the next weakest spring as well. If the strong one does not help, then the calibration problem is related to the A/F metering stage of either the Cruise or Power Modes. Use the Calibration Reference Chart to help select another combination."

I can't copy the spring chart, but if you don't have the manual you can see it here, along with an explanation of how the system works.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/dl/carb-owners-manual.pdf

 

[dmartin]

RR383 where did you get your bushings for your transmission linkage mine are worn out


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[RR383]

RR383 where did you get your bushings for your transmission linkage mine are worn out


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Unfortunately, I don't have a source to give you. The shop who did my work was strictly Mopar oriented and they either had them sitting around or fabricated them. Regardless of this you should be able to find an aftermarket vendor who carries them. Good Luck

 

[dmartin]

Thank you


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[69hemibeep]

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/727-linkage