New Guy!

Thanks, it was painted 30 years ago in my barnboard garage and has held up well but could really use a redo as it has a lot of rock chips, a few scratches and a couple dings from all the use and abuse I do to it.

cuda Carlisle 2024.jpg
 
torredcuda said:
Thanks, it was painted 30 years ago in my barnboard garage and has held up well but could really use a redo as it has a lot of rock chips, a few scratches and a couple dings from all the use and abuse I do to it.

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Ya mine same way did it in 1990. It coming out some around back window and wheel wells. Same rocks and a cat on my hood scratched it up some. Love ur car nice.

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They make cars in different colors for a reasonr.
From my experience with PPG if you go in and ask for a single stage color by paint code be ready for it to not be exactly like the original formulation color. (Omni) I would imagine that is true across the paint lines.
Even the higher lines.
But I would definitely go with the earth tone original color as much as possible.
White is easy and nice. Black is pretty but hot and shows any flaws and dirt.
A Road Runner is cool alone. It's does not need to be a screaming yellow zonkers one eyed one horned flying purple color.
Nothing wrong with those high impact colors though . I've got them on some A bodies
Sometimes understated is nice.
 
I love the High Impact colors but love the other colors as well -Burnt Orange, dark greens etc. Matching any old color is a challenge due to type of paint has changed from lacquer and enamels to urethanes so have the toners that are used to mix them. I tried a few lesser known brands of paint and color match for my In-Violet was way off, I have been a PPG user for a long time but due to cost I decided to try the Omni Plus line which is made by PPG but costs less. My paint mix guy got the formula and it was very close to my original sample so that is what I am using. Not many use single stage these days and I would not recommend it unless you are doing a solid color and even then a base/clear is much better and not that much more expensive.
 
Rapid Transit said:
They make cars in different colors for a reasonr.
From my experience with PPG if you go in and ask for a single stage color by paint code be ready for it to not be exactly like the original formulation color. (Omni) I would imagine that is true across the paint lines.
Even the higher lines.
But I would definitely go with the earth tone original color as much as possible.
White is easy and nice. Black is pretty but hot and shows any flaws and dirt.
A Road Runner is cool alone. It's does not need to be a screaming yellow zonkers one eyed one horned flying purple color.
Nothing wrong with those high impact colors though . I've got them on some A bodies
Sometimes understated is nice.
Click to expand...
 
torredcuda said:
I love the High Impact colors but love the other colors as well -Burnt Orange, dark greens etc. Matching any old color is a challenge due to type of paint has changed from lacquer and enamels to urethanes so have the toners that are used to mix them. I tried a few lesser known brands of paint and color match for my In-Violet was way off, I have been a PPG user for a long time but due to cost I decided to try the Omni Plus line which is made by PPG but costs less. My paint mix guy got the formula and it was very close to my original sample so that is what I am using. Not many use single stage these days and I would not recommend it unless you are doing a solid color and even then a base/clear is much better and not that much more expensive.
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Thank you very much for the guidance!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
The one caveat of a metallic is it has to be uniform when sprayed. Much more difficult than a solid color in that regard.
And since I drive my cars, chips and dings can be touched up on a solid and blended much better than a metallic.
I can touch up metallic chip but I've aways been able to see the difference in the chip.
Even though adding harder to it is a PITA, I can touch up single stage enamels and urethanes . But I don't know how that would work on a base clear coat paint.
Sometimes it's best to just paint the whole fender, door, hood, decklid or roof/quarters as a unit instead for damage.
 
Rapid Transit said:
The one caveat of a metallic is it has to be uniform when sprayed. Much more difficult than a solid color in that regard.
And since I drive my cars, chips and dings can be touched up on a solid and blended much better than a metallic.
I can touch up metallic chip but I've aways been able to see the difference in the chip.
Even though adding harder to it is a PITA, I can touch up single stage enamels and urethanes . But I don't know how that would work on a base clear coat paint.
Sometimes it's best to just paint the whole fender, door, hood, decklid or roof/quarters as a unit instead for damage.
Click to expand...
Thank you so very much for the guidance!!

Semper Fi
Sabre_3
 
Thanks
my cousin who I bought the car from in 1985 between my army basic training and schooling wants me to put old school rims on it. But I think these go with the black stripes better
 
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