Primer prep

[Andy]

prepping my car for paint. Going to list the procedures I think are correct but not totally sure,your input is welcome.
1-bare metal
2.2k epoxy primer
3.filler
4.block sand 80
5.re epoxy if showing bare metal
6. Block sand 120/220
7.2k primer surfacer
8.block sand using guide coat 180/240/400/600.
Then top coat etc

 

[Rapid Transit]

In my limited experience with epoxy primer and filler, I don't think sanding epoxy is something I want to do.
I learned that the epoxy used is thick and unless you use the correct size big tip you have to thin it out a lot to get it smooth.
That filler primer is what is easy to sand and that's the purpose of it.
80 sounds sort of course to me for block sanding too.
I'm sure professional painters have certain rigid things they do.
But I'm shoot from the hip painter.
"What the eye does not see, the bodyman gets away with".

 

[69hemibeep]

I'm in a dry climate no rust to worry about on bare metal. So I go bare metal work the metal and fill, sand the filler with 180. When I think I got it straight I shoot 4x filler primmer guide coat and block with 220, it that looks good I fill prime again to get rid of sand scratches guide coat and block with 400. That's where I 'm at on mt AMX, next will be sealer and black paint. I'm not a pro but have painted a few with the guidance of the people at the paint store.

 

[torredcuda]

I am old school and have always put filler over bare metal, guys nowadays tell me I should epoxy first then filler or it will rust underneath but my Barracuda was done in `95 and not showing any signs of rusting. So - epoxy over bare metal, filler over bare metal or epoxy, which ever you prefer, then re-epoxy any bare metal from sanding filler, 2k high build primer - if within re-coat window no need to sand epoxy but if outside window you need to sand first 180 or 220, guide coat and block starting with 180 and work down to 400-600. Every paint manufacturer has slightly different recommendations so always follow those.

 

[Russ69Runner]

Use green scotch bright pad to rough up my epoxy primer before applying body fillers. Watched videos of my friend Pete from SWRNC. Painting a car by yourself. Also, body prep. Gives you the type of gun you need and nozzle type. I used the purple gun from HB freight. Had good results from it. If you don't mind a little cussing, you will get good info from Pete. I even called him a couple of times and it was good to talk with so enjoy the experience and get ready it is a long job to paint these 17-foot boats. LOL.

 

[Andy]

I am old school and have always put filler over bare metal, guys nowadays tell me I should epoxy first then filler or it will rust underneath but my Barracuda was done in `95 and not showing any signs of rusting. So - epoxy over bare metal, filler over bare metal or epoxy, which ever you prefer, then re-epoxy any bare metal from sanding filler, 2k high build primer - if within re-coat window no need to sand epoxy but if outside window you need to sand first 180 or 220, guide coat and block starting with 180 and work down to 400-600. Every paint manufacturer has slightly different recommendations so always follow those.

Very similar, the 2k epoxy was applied about 6 months ago to seal the metal. All auto shops recommend.Like you said no need to sand if using within around 2 days.