Rear main seal

[Roadcuda]

Well, it really looks like I'm going to have to do the rear main seal on my car. Can this be done without pulling the engine out of the car? I've been told that it can be done with just dropping the rear cap, and then being able to push out the old seal over the crank with the new seal, and that it can be difficult to get the oil pan gasket sealed properly at the rear of the pan. Also can the upper seal be changed without lowering the crank. I'd like to try and do this myself, but I haven't done any kind of engine work like this and I know it's one area that needs to be done right the first time. On average, what might the cost be to have it done? Thanks guys.

 

[SomeCarGuy]

I don't know about cost but I have never been able to do it without dropping the crank.

If you have much of any leaks it may not be a bad idea to just pulll the thing and be done with it.

If it is an old rope seal, you might be able to screw a drywall screw into the upper piece and work it out.

If you bring it down here to KY I will do it for 100 bucks cash plus the seal(s).

 

[mcmopar]

Make absolutely it is the rear seal leaking and not something else. Shortly after I put mine back together in '03 I began to see oil puddling on the garage floor right where the rear main seal is located. I was very concerned that the seal was bad because the engine had been on the stand for 3 years, but after some investigation I came to realize it wasn't the main seal but rather the gasket seal at the main cap area at the passenger side rear corner of the block. This area is very uneven at both corners of the back of the block and should be sealed with generous amounts of RTV silicone. When I had originally put the pan on, I had used RTV Ultra Blue to seal it all up. I had to remove the pan for another reason and when I did I noticed that there was a small pinhole in the silicone at the rear corner on the passenger side of main cap/block area. I got out the carb spray with the small nozzle and sprayed it all out to make sure it was completely clean. Once dry I injected some more silicone into the pinhole, making sure it was completely plugged and added some more RTV on both corners for good measure. I then installed the gaskets to the pan, making an RTV Blue multilayer sandwich, and bolted it all back up. The good news was - no more leak!
Check everything else first to make sure it isn't just a leaking gasket seal. No use doing something you don't need to do.

 

[Roadcuda]

Mac, I have thought of that possibility. On reason is that I have had to tighten up the pan bolts on more then one occation. And anytime I'm under the car it is always wet under there with what looksand feels, to be oil. Also, after driving more then 20 miles or so I do get a strong smell of burnt oil coming from the car. The only thing that makes me wonder about this being the problem is that I'm not adding much, if any, oil to it.

 

[Big John]

Hmmm... Burnt oil... That's a valve cover leaking.

 

[droptop]

Hmmm... Burnt oil... That's a valve cover leaking.

I agree. These exhaust manifolds are right by the gaskets on the valve covers, and the heat will cook the gaskets in a very short time. Very common on these engines. Change the valve cover gaskets first. A lot easier to get to and I am sure they need it if they have been on there a while.

 

[Roadcuda]

I have noticed a bit of dampness around the valve covers so I will need to do them. But I do have to find the problem under the engine. It didn't take long after I got to the show last weekend for some oil to start dripping at the rear of the engine. So I guess I have some work to do! Thanks guys.