thoughts on por 15

[sam z]

This may be a repeat subject, I really don't know. Discuss anyway if you don't mind.

I'm thinking of using this product extensively on the underside of my car, trunk,
etc. I'm not worried about chrysler authenticity. I don't intend on selling this car
and I want it protected so I can enjoy it for years to come. My car does not at the
present time have a rust / rot / corrosion issue. Its a solid car.

1. Are there any alternative products that are comparable?
2. Is there any reason NOT to do this knowing my goals for the car?
3. Has anybody used their engine paint? I believe they make that as well.

Thanks,
-Sam

 

[Big John]

I've used POR15 a number of years ago and it was a good product. It is intended for use on rusted metal though. I have heard of many adhesion failures when used on non-rusty metal. I never experienced a problem myself, but I'm pretty anal about following directions with paint. I have sprayed it using their thinner and overcoated it with lacquer primer, then top coated with basecoat/clear coat. I did it on an old Jeep Wagoneer that I just wanted to make look presentable. I dont think I would try that again though.

There's a couple things to consider when using it. Number one, its pretty nasty. Get it on your skin and its not coming off for a week (personal experience). It catalyzes with humidity in the air, so you want to use it on dry days. Use a respirator even when brushing it! It breaks down with UV light unless its top coated and top coating it can be tough. If it fully drys before you get a top coat on it, you're screwed.

That said.... your car hasn't rusted in 41 years. Chances are you aren't going to drive it in the conditions that bring about rust (winter, salty roads etc) and you won't be having any rust anyway. Before I coated it with POR15, I would look at some other alternatives.

I've heard mixed results with engine paint. I've never used it myself so I can't say much about it.

 

[sam z]

Sounds as if quality paint on a good, clean surface would do it.
Thanks for the info.

 

[BBillyC]

Another alternative is to use Picklex. I've also used POR15 but prefer the picklex route. Once the picklex dries I spray with epoxy primer. I like POR15 for the inside of frame rails etc., but have had trouble with adhesion once it is dried paricularly on exposed metal areas that have been rebuilt and need to be covered with finished paint and color sanded. I have a small area (3" x 3") on my left fender right where I used POR15 and I noticed this year that the surface paint is separating. I've had no issues with picklex.

 

[mcmopar]

Another product to think about is called Rust Bullet. Where POR-15 requires a 3 step process for best effect, Rust Bullet, like Picklex, is a one-step process; remove loose rust scale and paint it right on over the rust. If you apply POR-15 or Rust Bullet over clean bare steel you need to sand it with an 80 grit paper first to develop some "tooth" in the finish and also make sure that all possible grease/oils are removed for them to grab hold of - otherwise they will peel off.
Once it sets is it impervious to just about anything except DOT 3 brake fluid! I have used POR-15 and Rust Bullet and have come to the conclusion that if I need to use a rust treatment product in a cosmetic area (one that will be seen like my engine compartment) I use POR-15 because it has a smoother finish and looks great when topcoated. For under the car, in the trunk or anywhere that won't be seen I use Rust Bullet because it is simpler to apply and when topcoated with undercoating you'll never know its there. Yes, you need to wear gloves to apply it (and Rust Bullet, too) and they do stink quite a bit, but I never needed to use a respirator to apply it with a brush. Just make sure you are in a very well ventilated area. I coated my entire engine compartment with POR-15 - including the underside of the hood - with a brush out in the garage and had no problems with ventilation. I just did a section at a time (passenger inner fender - firewall - driver's inner fender and underside of hood). If you happen to get it on you you can get it right off with carb spray - just make sure to get to it before it dries or you will be wearing it for a week or so.
Bill told me about Picklex when he was donw here in Orlando a little while ago and it sounds like a great product. When I get some extra $$$ I definitely plan on giving it a try.

One other product I have mentioned here for removing rust is Evapo-Rust. Its great stuff and is reusable many times - just filter it and keep on using it. It will remove the rust - not just cover it up. Check it out on http://www.evapo-rust.com

Paint will last only so long because air and moisture can still penetrate to the metal surface through the paint and primer. I found many places in my engine bay where the painted surface looked good only to find surface rust on the metal underneath the paint. POR-15, Rust Bullet and Picklex coat the metal and create an impenetrable seal that keeps moisture and oxygen from reaching the metal - thus completely removing any opportunity for rust to form.
For the bottom of the car my vote is for either Picklex or Rust Bullet. Speaking from experience, Rust Bullet is a great product. You can check it out at http://www.rustbullet.com