Universal Joint Removal

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roadrunnerh

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I have used a C-clamp to replace U-joints, but it has been a while. Any tips you guys can offer would be appreciated. I have a bench vise that I was going to rest the ears of the driveshaft on to remove them by pounding them out. I don't own a press.
 
roadrunnerh said:
I have used a C-clamp to replace U-joints, but it has been a while. Any tips you guys can offer would be appreciated. I have a bench vise that I was going to rest the ears of the driveshaft on to remove them by pounding them out. I don't own a press.
Click to expand...
i stick it on the floor and get a socket just a little bigger then the cup for the bottom and use a punch a little smaller then the cup on top and beat it out......works like a charm everytime.....you can use the vice to put it back together and install the snap ring on one side then tap her in with the punch.....make sure the grease fitting is face correct
 
X2

The biggest issue with u-joints is creating a bind when re-assembling. It's kinda hard to explain it in words, I wish I could show you...Bottom line is that when all is said & done, the joint should articulate with no resistance whatsoever. That is, once the clips are in, the joint cups need to be seated outward in their loops so they contact the clips - thus unloading the "X" part. Positioning the driveshaft loops strategically on (not in) the vise (like you mentioned) and applying gentle taps with a dead-blow or brass hammer on the loops of the opposing axis (both ends) will do it.... Again it's easier to demonstrate than to explain. Hope it makes sense!
 
A31PKG said:
X2

The biggest issue with u-joints is creating a bind when re-assembling. It's kinda hard to explain it in words, I wish I could show you...Bottom line is that when all is said & done, the joint should articulate with no resistance whatsoever. That is, once the clips are in, the joint cups need to be seated outward in their loops so they contact the clips - thus unloading the "X" part. Positioning the driveshaft loops strategically on (not in) the vise (like you mentioned) and applying gentle taps with a dead-blow or brass hammer on the loops of the opposing axis (both ends) will do it.... Again it's easier to demonstrate than to explain. Hope it makes sense!
Click to expand...
I got ya, same way I do it. The u-joint does enough work without tight caps
 
There's a faster way, using a vise and a BFH, but it's hard to describe.
 
Big John said:
There's a faster way, using a vise and a BFH, but it's hard to describe.
Click to expand...

BFH to take it out and vice to install the new one while the wife holds the driveshaft up :thumbsup:

But,don't hollar at her or she will tell ya what to do with the drive shaft to :lol:
 
Thanks for the helpful info guys! I can always count on yous...

I removed the U-joint on the tranny yoke end (off car of course)
But, I'm having a bitch of a time removing the u-joints from the driveshaft.
Now I have a driveshaft with a U-joint on one end, and a tranny yoke with a U-Joint.

PB Blaster over night, then try again tomorrow.
 
Mission accomplished. Now, I need to measure and determine how much I need this driveshaft shortened
(we covered that in a different thread)

Thanks Fellas!
 
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