Using my original connecting rods?

[JJRJR]

Are the original 69 383 Rods strong enough to use in my build? Everything else is new except the crank and the engine builder was going to use my original connecting rods with the new pistons; is that ok? Would it be better if I used a new aluminum set? Any recommendations?

Seems to me that it doesn't make sense to put back a part so important that is 42 years old when there is likely much better technology out there.

Thanks guys,

John

 

[sixgunrunner68]

If reconditioned your rods would be fine, but it's a costly process. You may be better off looking into a set of steel H beam rods. Weigh the cost out. I wouldn't recommend using aluminum rods for street apps. :cents:

 

[ACME A12]

If reconditioned your rods would be fine, but it's a costly process. You may be better off looking into a set of steel H beam rods. Weigh the cost out. I wouldn't recommend using aluminum rods for street apps. :cents:

X2 on all counts.

My machinist (buddy of mine for 30+ years) gets all cross-eyed and pissy if I even mention reconditioning a set of 40+ year old rods when there are so many cost effective alternatives out there...

 

[JJRJR]

Hmmm...what does reconditioning entail? I'm already $7K into this engine alone, so if there is a more cost effective method with excellent results, I'm all ears.

John

 

[moparchris]

There are some very affordable I beam steel rods out there and are very close to the cost of reconditioning your old set. IIRC your using an aluminum head as well which will up the power substancially and good rods are great piece of mind. When I build a BBM I always consider my HP goal and select parts from there. If its going to be over 500 or very close I will use an aftermarket rod. :cents: You will have close to $250 in the stockers and a new set of I beams run in the 400 range. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense over $150.

 

[sixgunrunner68]

Hmmm...what does reconditioning entail?
John

Reconditioning means pressing out the bolts, grinding the cap and rod mating surfaces, pressing in new bolts, torquing them back together and honing out the journal to size. The wrist pin bore will also be checked and sized as needed. It's not difficult, just time consuming. Throw in a balance job and get out your check book. :yesnod:

 

[JJRJR]

Thanks guys, I agree I'd rather have new rods. Not really sure where the HP will be. I've posted on here my build; which is very close to the Mopar Muscle 383 build. I'm using the Comp Cams XE275 (they used the 285) and I'm using an Eddy Performer RPM dual plane intake (they used a MP 1 single plane). Assuming the Hooker Headers they used will flow similar to the TTI 3 inchers that I'm going to use; my HP should be pretty close to their Dyno result which was 455. The wildcard in my build is that I'm using the Eddy Performer RPM Aluminum heads where the build by Mopar Muscle used stock heads.

I have heard 100 different opinions on how much more power the heads will give me over the Mopar Muscle Dyno result, but I'm thinking I'll start at less than 455 because of the smaller cam I'm using. Sooooo, if I got say 425 with the smaller cam then maybe 30 HP with the new heads; I'll be knocking on 500.

My engine builder says these Eddy Heads really open up the BB Mopars much more than other blocks for some reason. Anyone out there used the Eddy RPM's on a 383?

Thanks, John.

 

[mcmopar]

Your heads will make up the power difference IMO. They used stockers which are ok but your flow will be substantially better, plus you have the oversized valves in the Edelbrock heads as well so theoretically you should get substantially better breathing. I'd bet you'll be making 450 + or so on the dyno.