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What fire extinguisher that won't ruin everything?

woodwiz

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I never gave this a whole lot of thought till yesterdays ride down to the hot rod shop. I was on the freeway and smelled what seemed like electrical/plastic burning. I got to the shop and my mechanic took a look as well and no smell. He said it was well worth the cost of a fire extinguisher in case i get a old wiring fire under the dash or engine compartment. He also said to get the Halguard type that won't ruin the stuf that does'nt burn. What's kind is anyone on the forum using and where purchased for how much!!! Thanks!!
 

69hemibeep

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Amerex A384T. Amazon has them for $135. That and insurance in case that fails
 

Roadcuda

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You need one that takes care of, gas and oil, electrical, and flammables. It should have at least Class B,C and D.
 

Coyote

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CO2 or Halon. Dry powder makes a righteous mess and can ruin a ton of stuff.
A lot less expensive and readily available. Better than losing an entire vehicle!
 

Ranger

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CO2 or Halon. Dry powder makes a righteous mess and can ruin a ton of stuff.
A lot less expensive and readily available. Better than losing an entire vehicle!
I thought the EPA banned Halon manufacture in '94.
 

halifaxhops

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CO2. I had a engine fire and hit it with my powder ext. Man what a mess to clean up and it pitted the aluminum also.
 

Petroleum1

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C02 for sure...not cheap but will put out the fire without the powder mess.
 

MoparDan

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There are no federal or state regulations prohibiting the buying, selling, or using a Halon extinguisher or fire suppression system. The manufacture of Halon is what was banned. There are still a lot of Halon systems still in use. Most of the server rooms I worked in still have Halon systems.
 

Russ69Runner

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They were installed in a lot of Kitchens. I wired the hood shutdowns and gas shut off relays. It suck's the Oxygen out of the air. I would hate to be trapped in one of those room's where shutters rolled down and doors close automatic. The room became a death trap. Electrical wires shorted will continue to melt until the source is gone or the circuit become open, and no more contact is there. This is the sad fact about electrical wiring fires. Had a 1200-amp Electrical panel melt down in front of one coworker and myself. There was a big blue ball of fire in the air while many brakers were blowing out before I got the main braker to shunt trip. Would not suggest any type of extinguisher to be used in this case. Best thing is to cut the source of power. That was A/C current, but DC has no sign wave like A/C. But don't be fooled they both do a lot of damage with shorts. Think if you have new electrical wiring and all the components gone through on your dash cluster then you should never have a problem. My car is over 50 years old and no signs of wire damage when pulling out the old wiring. Yes, It was dry and brittle so replaced all of it in the car. As well a new bulkhead connector. Guys have been known to splice other power drawing devices into a circuit and overload the feed wire they are tapping into. Not a good Idea. Always use a separate fused wire to supply add on devices. Ok Just my two cents on power and sources. Have fun and be safe out there.
 
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