Media Blast Time!

CompSyn

CompSyn

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There she is. After 15-years the bird is out of my possession as it is away for an overnight stay at the media blasters. So I'm naturally a little anxious over it. It's not the better part of town, but not much left on the car for the taking either. Anyway, they're not blasting the whole car, just a few trouble spots throughout the interior. Oh man! I hope I get it back in one piece. Bites nails.
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Yea some of my friend's recommended an acid bath but warned me might get half a car back. I went with a HF medium blaster and used wire wheel on my grinder. Use aluminum oxide medium on mine like it in the wheel well areas for hard to reach upper control brackets. The only way I could get in the tight places.
 
She's back safe and sound! And after about 5 hours of clean up it looked like this ->
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Roof turned out good!
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Wasn't entirely expecting this, but hey nothing time and money can't solve->
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In the morning, we're spraying everything throughout with Rust Proof M/D. I'm told it's awesome stuff so we shall see. Pics to follow...
 
The roof always has some kind of rust, when they dipped these things in primer it was meant for the lower chassis. Were you able to see how far up the firewall the prime went before you media blasted?
 
looks pretty decent inside. minimal floor rust, not bad. now take a lot of pictures and send them to Russ. they will be a big help to him.
 
Thanks for the pics. Like them. Yep past most of that. But will use these pics for reference. Wish my trunk hinge brackets and extensions looked that good. Looking good Compsyn. Russ. :thumbsup:
 
I used POR 15 on my inside floor pans and trunk section and inner fenders before painting
 
Now here is a stupid question what is M/D. Thought the best thing to use was epoxy. Looks good. Like the shine. Russ. :thumbsup:
 
Russ69Runner said:
Now here is a stupid question what is M/D. Thought the best thing to use was epoxy. Looks good. Like the shine. Russ. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

It's called RustProof M/D by Martin Senour Paints, Link: http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/documents/pds/RustProof-MD-PDS-11-16.pdf

I thought epoxy primer too. I even have some SPi epoxy primer which is said to be really good stuff. But my autobody guy highly recommended RustProof M/D. Said he was not overly impressed with epoxy primer.

Anyway, what I like about Rust Proof is you can paint it directly over rust. And even though I sand blasted everything, I liked the sound of applying a product that could encapsulate and seal rust which perhaps we missed. Also, I am told it has great wicking properties that allows it to flow really well between panels and other tight areas. For example, the Martin Senour Rep told me you can paint it up to a strip of automotive grade, green, masking tape and the Rust Proof will flow half way under the tape. I was also told it will dry into a really tough glossy finish in which I can paint over or leave as a stand alone top coat finish. I also like that I can touch anything up with a paint brush if we missed anything after spraying like for example, behind the quarter glass panel and door jam area.

Anyway, I'm taking everyone's word for it so I hope it works out. So far so good.
 
Ok thanks just was wondering. I have been using rust converter from Eastwood. Also use Rust oleum converter in can. Then apply Epoxy over that. Got me a Spray gun from Eastwood that has 2 foot extension's one sprays 360 degree and the other one sprays straight fan. Got it to put on bed liner but have used it to get into places I cant get to like rockers and front extensions and back trunk rails. It is grate. Thanks again for the info and wish you speedy rebuild on the car. Your Bud Russ. :thankyou:
 
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