Original Ammeters

Newbird

Newbird

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How many still have the original ammeter and have you had any problems with it. I'm trying to reinstall the original instrument panel and the PO cut the 10 gauge wire that I assume went to the ammeter. Being a prior Mustang restoration guy I continued to use the old ammeter even though there were discussions about fires and shorts. I never had a problem but wondered if Mopar was any different?
 
I’ve used many in the older cars. Only real problems I’ve seen are in the tin grill 70s trucks. They cheapened them by then.

I’ve had the muscle with them bypassed and that works well with no worries about it and all the possibilities. So whatever way you do will be ok.
 
The only issue Ive seen is the nuts can come loose with the hot and cold cycles and start burning the board. Make sure the board is good and the nuts are tight.
 
I have owned many old Mopars since 1979 and I have never had or even seen one that had a fire caused by the ammeter but I guessit does happen. IMO if all your wiring and connectors are in good shape and not corroded and you don't have too much extra strain on the system like big draw stereos etc. then you will probably be fine.
That said - ALWAYS carry an extinguisher or fire stick and keep a wrench that fits the battery terminals handy.
 
Newbird said:
How many still have the original ammeter and have you had any problems with it. I'm trying to reinstall the original instrument panel and the PO cut the 10 gauge wire that I assume went to the ammeter. Being a prior Mustang restoration guy I continued to use the old ammeter even though there were discussions about fires and shorts. I never had a problem but wondered if Mopar was any different?
Click to expand...
You may consider changing the insulation between the two terminals on the ammeter as well just to be safe
 
Thanks for all the comments. My question came up when I started unraveling the wire hacks in the car and found the ten gauge red and black wires cut which basically made the ammeter inoperable. The PO had wire nutted the red and black wires together through a fused connector. At some point the load was so great on the fused splice it didn't just blow the fuse it melted the fuse and fuse receptacle. I found an old posting describing a fix for the system I'm going to try to see if I can correct the problems. At this point I don't know how the car even ran with the battery and alternator output essentially disconnected at the melted fuse and receptacle connection.
 
Thanks, I've seen that before and it pretty much follows the wiring fix of the old posting. Since the ammeter hasn't been in the circuit I going to wire the system according to the attached drawing and the final drawing of the video. I found a digital volt meter on Amazon that I think I can replace the ammeter with and save the old ammeter in case someone ever inherits this car so they can put it back to the original condition. There are other ways to do it but I'll try the easiest method.

amp-ga18.jpgamp-ga27.jpg
 
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