Recent content by 72RoadRunnerGTX

A deeper dive into this and other common all-stock Chrysler electrical subjects using load demonstrations. Debunking some popular band-aid fixes to this stock charging/electrical system. Part 6, Not so stock mods, here https://youtu.be/qpDm5bXX60w

Oh yea, I’ve participated in numerous discussions over the years on various forums relating to ammeters and other original charging system issues and remedies. The load placement, or misplacement, impact on the factory original charging system seams to be the most mis-understood. Frankly the...

For those that are interested in a fact-based video presentation on this subject, specific to the original Chrysler factory charging system design and touching a bit on ammeters/melted bulkhead connectors, I submit this video, forgive the amateur production quality. Feel free to critique the...

Just a quick note on the stock original "old ammeter gauge", in good shape, with correctly tightened/maintained connections, undamaged insulators, they don’t just fail for no reason whatsoever over time. The factory original ammeters are a simple device, stoutly constructed, with good...

Curious, did the over-voltage charging condition mentioned in the first post get addressed? The wiring discussion here wouldn’t normally resolve an over-voltage condition as described.

To be clear, the “fleet” or bulkhead by-pass would involve a direct wire run from the alternator to the alternator side of the ammeter (black ammeter original wire) and another run directly from the battery side of the ammeter (red wire) to the fusible link, by-passing the weak bulkhead...

Yes, idiot lights used a switching sending unit and gauges used a variable resistance sending unit. But only true for oil pressure on Chrysler products from this time. No idiot lights used for temp monitoring. Check the sender resistance to ground, should be about 74 ohms cold, decreasing to...

If you want the ammeter to function correctly it's a negative effect, running the alternator to starter relay by-passes the ammeter altogether, defeats it's purpose. It’s not moving around because the charging/discharging current has been re-routed. The factory “fleet by-pass” by-passes the...

If the two outer terminals of the NSS/backup switch plug are jumped together, key-on, you should have back-up lights. If you do, it’s a switch problem. If the switch is new, check for an old seal doubled up between the trans housing and switch/seal, should be just one seal. If the switch doesn’t...

After a closer look at one of your other pics, different angle, it appears that is not a jumper. Looks to me like someone has replaced the original NSS/back-up light trans harness with something home-made. Light blue wire (connected to the starter relay at the NSS terminal, original color-code...

That plug should run to the reverse lamp switch on the transmission, jumped like that would have the reverse lights come on with key-on. Have you checked your reverse light operation?

I had one of those, One of my current money pits.

Blue fusible link is the factory link. If you are going to leave “underhood by-pass” in place, no point in replacing the ammeter, it will no longer function correctly. You would need to troubleshoot the high current condition routing through the original charge path, correct that issue before...

I would strenuously challenge that assessment, never saw it on any correctly loaded untouched or correctly maintained Chrysler products at the dealers back in the day or since. Not many untouched/correctly loaded electrical systems in the Mopar’s that survive now are there. I’ve been owning and...

I will pass along some observations here. First to those commenting about being shocked that Chrysler engineers would design such a charging system, I would just remind, every Chrysler passenger car product built since 1960, and through the late seventies, roughly a third of all US production...