12V Power Source for Auxillary Fuse Block

[ykf7b0]

I need to add a 6 circuit auxillary fuse block to my 69 and I'm needing suggestions on how to wire the source power in. I'm thinking I could run an 8 gauge wire from the firewall mounted starter relay but I would like to hear from others that have actually added an auxillary fuse block. I know I could souce the 12v directly from the trunk mounted battery or even on the starter solenoid. The alternator output stud in not an option for me because space is limited. The starter relay would be the most efficient location if there aren't any issues I'm not aware of. Thanks!!!

 

[quikbird]

need more info please. what are youu wanting to run with the new circuits, how much power will they need, switched or unswitched, how are you going to control the circuits, where do you want to put the fuse block,

 

[ykf7b0]

I currently have an electric fuel pump, nitrous solenoids, gauge lights, and an electric fan that are piggybacked into the factory fuse block. I want to clean this up and take the load off the factory circuits. The circuits will be activated and de-activated with toggle switches so the block itself can be unswitched. I will be mounting the auxillary block close to the factory unit. Is the starter relay post a good place to source the power?

 

[quikbird]

I personally would come off the battery with a fused lead.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I use a Pac-200Amp main solenoid mounted near the battery (in the trunk)



http://www.amazon.com/PAC-PAC-200-200-Amp-Battery-Isolator/dp/B000CEBXRS

Cuts off power completely at the flick of a switch :encouragement:

I have a pair of the 500Amp versions in my Land Cruiser (dual batts, tons of electronics including two winches and a multi-camera surveillance system running 24/7) and they work great :courage:

In the runner, I have both the stock fuse panel for the OEM stuff (wipers, horn, ignition, lights, etc.) and a basic ATC auxiliary fuse panel mounted under the dash for all the aftermarket stuff (MSD 6AL box, Timing controller, 3-Stage retarder, fuel pump, adjustable shift light, etc.)

 

[ykf7b0]

I use a Pac-200Amp main solenoid mounted near the battery (in the trunk)



http://www.amazon.com/PAC-PAC-200-200-Amp-Battery-Isolator/dp/B000CEBXRS

Cuts off power completely at the flick of a switch :encouragement:

I have a pair of the 500Amp versions in my Land Cruiser (dual batts, tons of electronics including two winches and a multi-camera surveillance system running 24/7) and they work great :courage:

In the runner, I have both the stock fuse panel for the OEM stuff (wipers, horn, ignition, lights, etc.) and a basic ATC auxiliary fuse panel mounted under the dash for all the aftermarket stuff (MSD 6AL box, Timing controller, 3-Stage retarder, fuel pump, adjustable shift light, etc.)

In the runner, are you powering the the auxillary fuse panel from the trunk mounted solenoid? Thanks!

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

In the runner, are you powering the the auxillary fuse panel from the trunk mounted solenoid? Thanks!

Yes, the Pac-200 is mounted right next to the battery (in the trunk) and acts as a main cut off for the entire system (both OEM and auxiliary)

 

[quikbird]

couple things; the pac 200 is a great idea. the circuit to the aux panel still needs a fuse, if you do any drag racing with this RR the tech guys are going to want to see an external cutoff or switch to that pac 200 in some sort of easily visible place.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

couple things; the pac 200 is a great idea. the circuit to the aux panel still needs a fuse

It has an inline fuse between the solenoid and the fuse panel lug

if you do any drag racing with this RR the tech guys are going to want to see an external cutoff or switch to that pac 200 in some sort of easily visible place.

An external switch can be easily installed, but there's no way I'm doing that to my bird :basketcase:

 

[quikbird]

While I wholeheartedly agree with your feelings on the external switch idea the NHRA requires oneat the rear of the car if you do any kind of regular racing. Once a year like at the nats and you can slide but not if you go to the track much more often. you can install one that hangs below the bumper if desired.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

While I wholeheartedly agree with your feelings on the external switch idea the NHRA requires oneat the rear of the car if you do any kind of regular racing. Once a year like at the nats and you can slide but not if you go to the track much more often. you can install one that hangs below the bumper if desired.

I guess it depends on the track because all of the ones I've been to on the East coast (Moroso, OSW, Atco, Cecil, Island, CFRC, E-Town, West Hampton, etc.) have all been pretty lax when it came to tech :apathy:

In many cases, they rarely even popped the hood :loco:

Even on big event days, I never had a problem passing with cars that have no business being on the road lol

For example, my 29 Ford 5 window coupe death trap

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoxPKBX4g5I

No hood, no seat belts, no external battery switch (I used the same PAC-200 in that car as well), no mufflers, no helmet and I was wearing crocs :encouragement:

Passed tech at OSW with flying colors, but did manage to get kicked out for running without a cage

2200 lbs and 600hp makes for some scary passes :drive:

 

[quikbird]

yep national trail is a bit more strict. they do look for that coolant overflow, blowsheilds etc. I like the 29. pretty car. sounds like fun to make a pass

 

[ykf7b0]

I personally would come off the battery with a fused lead.

Any reasons why that will be better than a fused lead off the starter relay?

 

[quikbird]

I like the simplicity of having completely separate connections in case of any electrical gremlins. I know it is more work to run the lead but I would have more peace of mind with it separated

 

[ykf7b0]

Good point. Thanks for your input!

 

[quikbird]

You're welcome. Keep us informed on how it turns out please.

 

[ykf7b0]

I'm sorry for the late update but........I came off the firewall mounted starter relay with some 6 gauge wiring with a 50 amp maxi fuse in place. I used a bulkhead fitting to run the 6 gauge wiring into the passenger compartment under the dash and just above the factory fuse block. I now have a 8 circuit fuse block mounted that is full and has allowed me to really clean up the factory fuse block. All applicable circuits are non-switched and are on toggle switches. Everything is just as I need it and is working wonderfully.