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383 Build, looking for some recommendations

Larry Chilese

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I could use some recommendations. I'm rebuilding a 1967 383 for my 68 RoadRunner. I'd like to have a mild but strong running street rod. I plan a stock looking engine but with headers. I have a pair of 690 heads I'll use roller rockers. What I'd like some suggestions on is the type and size of cam and type of pistons. I'd like to use Hydraulic lifters with an upgrade of push rods, stock crank. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I do plan to use a Demon Carb 750 should do it.
 

Russ69Runner

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We put half dome piston's in this 383. Put me at 9.8 to 1. Could not find press wrist pin piston's. So wrist ping is floating in piston and wrist pin. Getting hard to find Cam's. Stuck with as close as we could get to the purple cam that was in the motor. Some say 440 source is where they got their cam's for the 383. Match the valve and spring's to the cam. If you can get the set you would be better off. The carb should be good. Running a 650 Demon carb on mine now. It came with the car. Got the last set of connecting rod's off line hardened rod's. Parts are really hard to find right now. Due to covid so they say.
 

dbc105

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Been studying a build for my 383 and so far it looks like I landed on the following:

Pistons - Ross Flat Tops, measure everything before ordering and request a pin height for zero deck. I emailed with Ed there last week and they are on about a 6 week turn around

Heads - 440 Source Stealth. No porting just out of the box and after taking them apart and checking everything and maybe a run across a mill to set the cc's

Cam - right now Bob K or better known as Mr Six Pack. for a street car his cam is most proven and can still supply enough vacuum for power brakes. When an A12 car can run Pure Stock and survive a tear down after turning 12s at 109 mph you can't go wrong. Talked with Bob the other evening and he is currently out of blanks and is waiting on those now so figure that lead time in.

Other stuff - 440 Source has a set they recommend for their heads and they state a .051 compressed thickness. Figure that in on you piston order and you may want a little negative deck height if you want a tight squish. Or run a Felpro at .039 and use that as squish. Seems most people are good with stock rockers unless you are going with a solid lift cam and if you want to zero lash use a rocker shaft shim kit to set that. There are vids on blueprinting the oil pump and unless you run a big pan and restrict the oiling don't use a pump bigger than stock. You might pump the pan dry when you max it out. Everyone loves the Performer RPM on these engines. Everything else as normal.

If you are going racing, forget everything I just suggested, this is what I'm looking at for my street engine build with no racing.
 

Terry Hauck

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Did you mean 906 heads? I used KB flat tops, a comp cam 23-224-4 from Summit, Edelbrock RPM Performer manifold, Doug's headers and a Holley 650. Stock crank, windage tray and stock 906 heads. It's about 9.2 compression and runs strong with California's 91 octane gas. The 750 might be too much. I use a friends Summit 750 and it was. The Holley 650 really smoothed it all out. Had to get the BFH after the headers that Doug's said would fit like a glove but other than that I like it. Have fun building your engine.
 

dbc105

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LOL, BFH, I thought they only used that in the Boilermakers. Of course Carpenters use hammers, Boilermakers use Beaters. Go to the tool room and ask for a 4lbs BFB.
 

Terry Hauck

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LOL, BFH, I thought they only used that in the Boilermakers. Of course Carpenters use hammers, Boilermakers use Beaters. Go to the tool room and ask for a 4lbs BFB.
The Military uses it too. They love acronyms. BFH, SNAFU, PCS, SOL......
 
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