383 Stroker Kit

[Confederate1969]

With the recent discovery of piston problems, I've been poking around exploring my options since I'll likely have to get new pistons anyway. I've noticed there are stroker kits available for 383's that increase displacement and horsepower quite a bit. What do y'all think of this sort of thing? Cool to do? Or would it be better to keep the 383 a 383?

 

[droptop]

Like the old saying goes.....There is no replacement for displacement. :cheers:

 

[Big John]

Like Droptop said. Bigger is usually better. Going to a stroker could be cool but if it were me, I'd set the original block under the bench and go find another engine block to play with. If you want to stay with the low block, a 400 might be the way to go.

That said... what do you want/expect to do with the car? A mild 383 is a really good for a nice cruiser that can be a lot of fun.

 

[Basketcase]

with the car being your Dad's, and that attatchment,if you're wanting to make a bunch of HP, I'd do like Big said, and stash the original engine, and get another to build. now, how are you planning to use your car? I drive mine everyday in nice weather. I always drove my cars alot,(especially after sitting all winter) but after i lost my last car in the fire, I'm more determinded to drive it. and, we all have only so many heartbeats. I know some guys around here, with beautiful mopars, that rarely, if ever come out of the garage. with the $4 a gallon gas last summer,if I had a big HP engine in mine, it would've sat. as it was my car was alot cheaper to drive than my 4x4.
Now, if you're planning on a weekend fun car, that won't matter as much.
but rebuilding the engine is just one of the normal steps in redoing a 40 year old car.

 

[Confederate1969]

I'm just curious about options right now, even one's that seem a bit far out or that are out of my budget. I don't know much about this sort of stuff, which is why I ask, not that I would actually do it. But maybe I would.

To answer yall's question about use, I'm just looking for a car that will giddyup. I want to ride around town and be able to lay down a bit of rubber when I want. I would like it to be a more aggressive engine than it was from the factory, but not 110 octane drag strip aggressive.

What do you all suggest would be the best course of action to get this sort of performance? I'm guessing it doesn't need a stroker set up to do this, does it?

 

[Roadcuda]

I'm just curious about options right now, even one's that seem a bit far out or that are out of my budget. I don't know much about this sort of stuff, which is why I ask, not that I would actually do it. But maybe I would.

To answer yall's question about use, I'm just looking for a car that will giddyup. I want to ride around town and be able to lay down a bit of rubber when I want. I would like it to be a more aggressive engine than it was from the factory, but not 110 octane drag strip aggressive.

What do you all suggest would be the best course of action to get this sort of performance? I'm guessing it doesn't need a stroker set up to do this, does it?

FWIW, as far as I know my 383 is in stock form, with 3.23s in the rear. For the most part I like just driving my car around and enjoying it. If I want a little extra power to get by someone I've got more then enough. If I need power to enter a highway and get up to speed, well, I'll just say if I hold the secondaries open long it will shift into second hard enough for a very loud chirp of the tires. So I think if you build it back to stock , and tune it right, I think a stock rebuild should provide enough power to play, and not kill you on gas when you don't play. :cents:

 

[Big John]

Roadcuda is right. A stock 383 will do pretty well.

For a little more snap, there's number of things. Ignition is a good place to start. Convert to the Chrysler electronic will give you some reliability and it will have a quicker advance curve. Next is the exhaust. A nice free flowing 2 1/2" system is a good place to start. Headers are good for power, but they can be a pain. Next would be a mild cam and a nice dual plane intake.

I can't remember if your car is an auto or stick... If its an automatic, a shift kit would be good and then maybe a higher stall convertor. 3.55 gears in the rear will give a little more snap too.

One thing I preach... Its all about the package.. how the whole car works together. Cam-gear-induction-heads-exhaust-etc. all has to be matched together.

 

[69hemibeep]

There is nothing wrong with the 383, I use to race one. With the short stroke it can pull some revs, and I'm going to guess the cost of a stroker kit would get you into a 440!

 

[Confederate1969]

Let's say I set the 383 in the corner. Where does one buy a 440? I've always heard they are a very hard find.

 

[Big John]

There's one ready to go on Moparts near you.
Go about 2/3 down the page.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4847543&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1&nt=3

 

[Plymouthfan]

I have no experience with building motors, so I'll just post a smiley... :drive:

 

[ACME A12]

There's one ready to go on Moparts near you.
Go about 2/3 down the page.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4847543&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1&nt=3

I assume that you're referring to the one for $2,500 (less carb). That ain't a bad price for a turn-key, ready to go engine with 45 min. run-time and that's only been around the block once...I'm guessing that option would also fare quite favorably cost-wise to going the 383 stroker route (although I personally would seek out a 400 block and put the original 383 under the work bench if it were my car/my money and I was going that route). The only thing about that 440 - I still don't understand why people keep shoving those purpleshafts with their outdated 30 year old designs & technology into brand new engines though... A Comp XE or Lunati Voodoo are the way to go if you want a hydraulic flat tappet bumpstick in a street vehicle. Wider LSA, better street manners, more power where you need it... :brickwall:

Ray

 

[Big John]

Yep, that's the one.

I don't think you could buy the parts and build one for that. Being able to hear it run is a real plus and I think its not far away.

 

[Confederate1969]

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions, guys! I'll let y'all know what I decide as soon as I get off of this 7 day a week work schedule and finish stripping the block down.

 

[Basketcase]

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions, guys! I'll let y'all know what I decide as soon as I get off of this 7 day a week work schedule and finish stripping the block down.

ah yes, gotta love 7 days. I work 21 turn. 7 on, two off, all three turns,long weekend off before midnight shift. 7 midnights in a row are ruff. loot divirces where I work. But...Thank God I have that job!

 

[Basketcase]

and I had $1700 in my 440 I rebuilt in '86. including machine work. best $$ I ever put in a car.$2500 sounds like a good deal. I've seen similar rebuilt 440s going for $4500+

 

[Confederate1969]

Yea, I lead a life of work till you drop cycles of sometimes up to 10 days in a row with a day off before another shift of several days in a row. And you thought insurance companies were only evil to their customers! This is why my RR is taking so long to tackle. I never really have a such thing as weekends!!! :brickwall:

Aw well. At least I have a job and income I suppose...

 

[Hoosier Bird]

Definately put the original block to the side. Find a decent 383 or 400 and put a stroker kit ($1897) and now your 383 is 496 cubic inches. Still has the short deck height so you can turn 7000 rpm with no problem. An old block will be ready for re-assembly for about $500 from the machine shop. 906 heads with a good valve job will be about $250. I've got a couple of 383's laying around for a rainy day and if it will help you get your car up and going I'll sell you one for cheap. Cam, chain, gaskets, lifters, etc..........about $400. Definately need a better intake and carb (eBay $400). Nic-nacs.......$300. Now that takes care of the motor. Next is the rear end. This would however be a blast to drive........I'll let you know in a few months because that is the motor I'm building..........

 

[SomeCarGuy]

You can do better than the 2500 deal. Either offer less or build it yourself. There isn't any high end stuff in that one unless I missd it but a PS and stock heads aren't any big deal. I've seen people have trouble selling similar 440s for 1500 so I know there is a better deal waiting.

I offered a fresh pump gas 496 with ported aluminum heads and roller cam, pro assembled shortblock with papers, etc for 4500 to people and got zero interest so 2500 for that one is WAY too much.

Get a 440 block, buy a stoker kit, get some freshened iron heads, and you will have about 2500 in a big engine that will last you. When you get some extra coins, buy some aluminum heads.

 

[mcmopar]

[quote="Big John":2m3lt3o0]There's one ready to go on Moparts near you.
Go about 2/3 down the page.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4847543&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1&nt=3

I assume that you're referring to the one for $2,500 (less carb). That ain't a bad price for a turn-key, ready to go engine with 45 min. run-time and that's only been around the block once...I'm guessing that option would also fare quite favorably cost-wise to going the 383 stroker route (although I personally would seek out a 400 block and put the original 383 under the work bench if it were my car/my money and I was going that route). The only thing about that 440 - I still don't understand why people keep shoving those purpleshafts with their outdated 30 year old designs & technology into brand new engines though... A Comp XE or Lunati Voodoo are the way to go if you want a hydraulic flat tappet bumpstick in a street vehicle. Wider LSA, better street manners, more power where you need it... :brickwall:

Ray[/quote:2m3lt3o0]

Actually the Purple Shafts have been updated over time. There are newer 284/484 and 292/509 cams out now with less overlap for better low rpm driveability and the 268/284 "road runner" cam has been given a lot more grunt with a new duration at 0.050" lift (now 241 degrees - the originals were a LOT milder). With the right combination of heads, induction and exhaust system the new "road runner" cam will make some very impressive power - even with the moderate .450/.455' lift specs. If I didn't have 11:1 TRW pistons in my engine (courtesy of a previous owner) I'd go to one of the new "road runner" cams in a heartbeat along with a set of heads tweaked out by a good friend here in the Orlando area who has been doing some impressive flow studies for his NHRA B/SA '70 Challenger 440- -6 Pack car.

I will agree, though, that the aftermarket cam providers have made excellent gains with the new fast ramp designs. Comp Cams and Hughes Engines are the most notable designers of fast ramp cam technology for the Mopar engines. Crane and Lunati are also in the game as well. Now is a great time to build a strong Mopar engine.