Adjusting Hydraulic Roller Cam

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zupanj

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Anyone have experience with adjusting a hydraulic roller cam. I assume it's the same as any hydraulic lifter but I am not sure. I took the right side valve cover off because there is enough valve train noise that I was afraid I wasn't oiling. It looks like the head is getting plenty of oil but I think at least a couple of intake adjustments were off. I could spin the roller on the #6 rocker arm and could almost but not quite get a 0.008" feeler gauge to go under the roller. I set the adjustment so I turned a quarter turn after the roller stopped spinning. Is this correct? I hit a starter and then #4 had the same adjustment. It has been more than 40 years since I played with valve adjustment and then it was with solid lifters. I want to be sure I am doing this correctly.

Jack :eek:
 
for setting preload on hydraulic roller lifters.

Quote

I have a set of comp roller hydraulic lifters. The spec sheet calls for .030 to .050 preload. I have comp roller rockers that have 3/8 x 24 adjustment screws. 24 threads per inch is .041 inches per thread. 1" divided by 24 = .041.
.
Once I get the freeplay out of the rockers, can I just make 1 full turn to get approximately .041 inches of preload?

yes


...I built a street hemi motor last year with Comp Cams ydraulic roller lifters, I usually set the hydraulics up with 1/4 to 1/2 turn preload cold and reajust after the cam is broken in with warmed up oil. That motor wanted 1 to 1.5 full turns of prelaod to make the lifters quiet Making them quiet down did not affect the idle or the high rpm rev range, I did send one set back after adjusting them like Comps instruction said and still having a lot of lifter-rocker arm noise, that set sounded like a old SB Chevy .030 .030 Duntov solid cam and lifters Play with the adjsutments hot a until you like it




I set my Comps to 1/2 turn on my 372 small block 5 years ago. Pulls clean to 6800. Never have had to touch them.




...ran zero with an NHRA stocker for years





jack....maybe this will help ya :thumbsup:
 
Thanks George. It seemed there were two intakes that were pretty loose as I could spin the rocker arm rollers when the lifter was on the base circle. I tightened them until the roller wouldn't spin any longer and locked. I probably need to repeat using push rod spin as the indicator. I found the Crane lifter instructions this morning and they call for 1/2 to 1 turn beyond zero lash.
I now appreciate the starter solenoid on the fender that Ford uses. Turning the engine to get every valve on the base circle is a pain.

Jack
 
jack...do you have the mopar performance....hemi engine book.....go to page 364 for seting valve lash....
#1 TDC firing adjust intake #2 & #7
exhaust #4 & # 8
rotate 180degrees clockwise (from front) to #4 tdc firing
adjust intake # 1 & # 8
exhaust #3 & #6
rotate 180 degrees to # 6 tdc firing
adjust intake #3 & #4
exhaust # 5 & # 7
rotate 180 degrees clockwise to # 7 tdc firing
adjust intake # 5 & # 6
exhaust # 1 & # 2


this is right from the mopar book.....this is the right way and is faster then the old way


IT WORKS!!!!!
 
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