Alternator choices

[6R9Runner]

Last week I drove the Runner on Monday and Wednesday, about 10 miles each time, to do some carb fine-tuning. There was some idling in the garage, revving, re-starting, and driving. Then last night (Friday) I went to crank her up and the starter went ruh-ruh-ruh for the last hurrah. I disconnect the -ve terminal when leaving the car for any time, even a couple of days, so I dont suspect parasitic drain. But it was late on Wednesday the last drive and the headlights were on, other than that nothng unusual. I've been digging into this subject lately since I suspect my alternator is not putting out.

1) What alternator is everyone using?
2) Who has upgraded to isolated field from single field? It looks straightforward, I'm not afraid of upgrading to a newer alternator but i don't want GM or other crap under the hood.
3) Are Summit/ parts store alternators all the same? What part do I order to get the right one?

It doesn't need to be a high output version, just reliable. Here's what's in there now, it looks original.
Thanks


Does either of these look correct?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7509SP/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-812107/

 

[69hemibeep]

You could find a shop that rebuilds them or do it yourself, it appears you have the 54 amp version already my car came with a 37 amp. Or use the later version used in 1970 and up but you need to ground one of the fields I believe, someone will jump in and give you the skinny on those.

 

[ACME A12]

Or use the later version used in 1970 and up but you need to ground one of the fields I believe, someone will jump in and give you the skinny on those.

IIRC there was an entire thread devoted to this discussion...probably easy to find with a quick search...

 

[John69RR]

Here is a link I have saved.
http://www.moparchat.com/forums/archive ... -3965.html

 

[mac]

this may help.

http://www.davesmopar.com/techreg.htm

 

[6R9Runner]

Ok, that's plenty of info to get me started. I worked through the Charging System Diagnosis today from the reference section. The battery and field circuit appear to be fine, but since my DVM only tolerates 10 amps I can't fully test the alternator according to the procedures mentioned. With the right ammeter I can continue to figure out what is going on. Thanks again.

 

[mac]

here is a replacement for a single field

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 9128284___

i use part number P7538, that is a single pully with 2 field terminals.

also found a link to an old thread

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2768

 

[SomeCarGuy]

I use a 2 wire field unit and have the late model VR. I don;t have near the issues that some seem to with dim lights, etc. I have a new YO harness underhood, everything is like it rolled off the line with what I have.

Not sure how many AMPs mine puts out. I did run a shunt from the alt to the starter relay.

 

[6R9Runner]

The direct (fused) wire from battery to alternator is a great idea.

For the alternator, I used an Autozone DL7014 (50 amp) single field. For good measure I also upgraded to a solid state voltage regulator, VR706, to help the electronic ignition. Now the idle voltage is 13+ VDC, it does not drop when the headlights are on and the battery stays charged. As the rpm's increase, the voltage bumps up to 14+ VDC which IIRC is normal. My EverStart battery is 6 years old so that's the last weak spot. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[6R9Runner]

My buddy and I drove from Atlanta to Daytona Beach for the Turkey rod run. Happy to report no major issues, 1000 mile round trip. The Hot Rod Power Tour starts up in Cocoa Beach in June 2011. Hmmmm.

 

[69hemibeep]

I love it when a plan comes together!