AVS problems

[moparchris]

Hey guys, I know some of you are AVS experts here and I am hoping to tap into your vast knowledge base to help me with my problem. With that said :leg: Here is my problem. At Irwindale my Runner started to have bad moods where the car had a horrific stumble and would shoot ducks (misfire pretty severely) under full throttle. Okay fast forward and the problem progresses. I have replaced the points and condenser and rebuilt the carb. I found fuel jelly in the carb and had only one jet exposed, the other 3 were completely occluded with this goo. So I rebuilt the AVS with a good quality kit and soaked in carb dip. It came out very nice and clean. I very carefully re assembled the carb paying attention to details. Okay when I went to put it back on it wouldn't even start the accelerator pump was not squirting any fuel. That was problem number one. I noticed that there was a jet in the main body of the carb that looked like it had a filter or check valve. When I removed the top of the carb and pumped the plunger for the accelerator pump (AP from now on) There was a strong pump shot going back into the main well of the carb. I supposed that this dude is bad? A Holley has a check valve to stop the pump shot from going into the fuel bowl. Is this the same with a Carter? Okay second problem is that it runs like a total dog turd at all times and will shut of within a few minutes of driving like it ran out of fuel. I removed the top of the carb and found the fuel wells to be full. It totally runs like its running out of fuel. I may be chasing multiple problems. I have tried to isolate the ignition by putting a good Holley 750 dp on it. It runs a lot better but still tends to crap out. I need to do a little more research since I only ran it once with the holley. The fuel system is brand new from tank to sender to lines and fuel pump. For the first time a car has pretty much lost and I feel I am fighting an ignition problem as well as a defective carb. The weird part is that it ran like a striped ass ape until I parked it for a month. Oh well I am pretty frustrated right now and I am hoping someone could give me a few leads to chase.

 

[ACME A12]

Chris:

Seems unlikely that you would have developed some weird ignition problem just from sitting for a month, especially since you just did the points & condensor bit in response. Have you actually yanked the dist to check for excessive shaft wobble, etc. just to rule the dist out for contributions to the problem?

That fuel jelly in the carb and the fact that the switch to the Holley didn't make your probelms go away makes me think that you might still have a problem somewhere else in the fuel delivery system - despite the fact that you replaced everything at some point. Having already ruled it out because it was previously replaced might mean that it is somewhere that you need to look...I recently re-learned this a few years ago with a starting problem with the gold Duster - I initially ignored the starter relay because "I had already replaced it". It was the starter relay...

No clue on innerworkings of the AVS Accelerator Pump; I haven't had an AVS on anything in over 25 years...

Ray

 

[BBillyC]

I had that problem once until I discovered a clogged fuel filter, doubt that that is it, but it is worth a check.

 

[69hemibeep]

Chris as per our phone conversation there is a pump discharge needle under the squirter of an AFB and probably an AVS

 

[george68hemirr]

chris....if you had fuel jell in the carb makes me think you dont use stabil fuel conditioner so now the problem is in your gas tank,lines and fuel filter.....not a good thing

 

[Hoosier Bird]

Have you tried running some Seafoam through it yet.........I really like that stuff.........

 

[george68hemirr]

Have you tried running some Seafoam through it yet.........I really like that stuff.........

explain ....never heard of that :toetap:

 

[Basketcase]

it's a gas additive. about $8 at the parts store/Wally World. dump a can for a tank of gas. cleans the carb out. When I started driving my truck of many colors, it would run fine, then run like crap out of the blue. It had sat for 5 years or so. I ran about three cans over last summer and it really did the trick.

 

[moparchris]

The WHOLE fuel system is brand new. This thing did have extensive fuel issues. At the time when I bought it the previous owner said that he had rebuilt the carb the previous summer. I have it admit it looked like a lump of coal, but I ignored it anyway. I did check distributor bushing to shaft wear and it had minimal, I also checked it for spark wander which it had minimal as well. Thanks for the tips. I talked to Bob over the phone and he gave me plenty to ponder and I will have to spend an afternoon tinkering with it to try some new things.

 

[mcmopar]

One thing you may want to try is adjusting the secondary air valve spring. On the driver's side secondary air horn you should see a single slot screw. This screw adjusts the spring tension of the secondary butterfly. If you look at the secondary butterfly you will see a spring on the shaft on the driver's side. This spring determines how soon or late the secondary butterfly opens. On original AVS carbs the way to adjust when the secondary butterfly opens is to loosen the screw on the secondary air horn. Don't remove it! Just loosen it and let the spring tension relax. This will result in the secondary butterfly dropping to the vertical position (wide open). There should be a small adjuster under the screw with 2 small tabs on it. You can use either a flat bladed screwdriver or a pair of long but fine needle nose pliers to tighten the spring tension. Be careful with the adjuster tabs - they are somewhat delicate and can be broken off rather easily.
The stock adjustment setting is 3.5 turns to the left (counterclockwise if I remember correctly) after the butterfly just starts to move as you turn the adjuster. Once you have the spring tension set, tighten the hold down screw and road test the car. You can tailor your secondary air valve to open later by loosening the screw and turning the spring adjuster farther counterclockwise or sooner by turning the adjuster clockwise.
A note of caution - since the adjuster is under tension from the spring you'll want to make sure to block the adjuster tab if you just want to fine tune your secondary opening point after initially setting it up. What you may be experiencing is a bog due to the fact your secondary air valve adjustment is set either too early or too late.

 

[ACME A12]

I just keep thinking about the jelly in the carb...and that changing carbs didn't resolve anything...

 

[69hemibeep]

I just keep thinking about the jelly in the carb...and that changing carbs didn't resolve anything...

Ray I talked to Chris on the phone and the Holley did change things it sounded to me like he is chasing both a carb and ignition gremlins which can get frustrating its time to get to basics and work your way up I tried to run this sentence on just for Chris but I don't think I hold a candle to the master of run on sentences he is quite good at this :worship:

 

[jays69bird]

If you guys remember last year I put a rebuilt AVS on,had lots of problems,turned out to be ignition problem,the timing was retarded,the mark on the balancer was off,I also had to tune in the vacuum advance.

 

[moparchris]

Okay, so I messed around a little with the Rustyrunner yesterday. I found that I had to relocate the coil to install the holley750 DP (mytrusty friend). When I did that I somehow pinched the positive wire to the coil. :facepalm: Moved the coil and bingo it runs perfect. So this brings me back to the original problem. The AVS. Right now I am going to get the Runner driving perfect with the Holley and then switch back over to the AVS when I fix the accelerator pump. My question now is where do I get a high quality Accelerator pump plunger and check ball? I will try to pick one up from ebay and see if I can rob it of parts. Thanks for all the advice and I will let you know how it goes.

 

[69hemibeep]

Okay, so I messed around a little with the Rustyrunner yesterday. I found that I had to relocate the coil to install the holley750 DP (mytrusty friend). When I did that I somehow pinched the positive wire to the coil. :facepalm: Moved the coil and bingo it runs perfect. So this brings me back to the original problem. The AVS. Right now I am going to get the Runner driving perfect with the Holley and then switch back over to the AVS when I fix the accelerator pump. My question now is where do I get a high quality Accelerator pump plunger and check ball? I will try to pick one up from ebay and see if I can rob it of parts. Thanks for all the advice and I will let you know how it goes.

Chris. I know NAPA can get you a rebuild kit at a decent price. But a speed shop might have the pump and Checker,Oreilly super stores around here have a wall of individual carb parts. And they actually give you a one year warranty on Holley Power valves.

 

[moparchris]

One year warranty on power valves......no thats funny. :lmao:

 

[moparchris]

Okay I had to dig this one up from 5 pages back. So I spent some more time with my AVS. I actually borrowed an AVS from a carb shop as long as I promised to not hook it to my fuel system. I used my fuel cell that I hang from the hood to gravity feed the carb. Well it ran perfect, sort of, didn't get to drive it. So I spend the money to have this reputable carb shop rebuild it. 3 tries later it now runs well although not perfect. I found that the distributor shaft was loose and so I put a reman one in for $53. Anyways now it is down on power although it runs smooth unless your turning right which it sputters pretty badly then rights itself and away you go. The problems stem from the carb being so bad from corrosion in the beginning. So I hope someone takes something away from my crappy experience. Now the Rustyrunner will go down the road to a new home. I wont miss it.

 

[droptop]

Okay I had to dig this one up from 5 pages back. So I spent some more time with my AVS. I actually borrowed an AVS from a carb shop as long as I promised to not hook it to my fuel system. I used my fuel cell that I hang from the hood to gravity feed the carb. Well it ran perfect, sort of, didn't get to drive it. So I spend the money to have this reputable carb shop rebuild it. 3 tries later it now runs well although not perfect. I found that the distributor shaft was loose and so I put a reman one in for $53. Anyways now it is down on power although it runs smooth unless your turning right which it sputters pretty badly then rights itself and away you go. The problems stem from the carb being so bad from corrosion in the beginning. So I hope someone takes something away from my crappy experience. Now the Rustyrunner will go down the road to a new home. I wont miss it.

If it sputters when you are turning, your fuel level is to low :cents:

 

[69hemibeep]

Okay I had to dig this one up from 5 pages back. So I spent some more time with my AVS. I actually borrowed an AVS from a carb shop as long as I promised to not hook it to my fuel system. I used my fuel cell that I hang from the hood to gravity feed the carb. Well it ran perfect, sort of, didn't get to drive it. So I spend the money to have this reputable carb shop rebuild it. 3 tries later it now runs well although not perfect. I found that the distributor shaft was loose and so I put a reman one in for $53. Anyways now it is down on power although it runs smooth unless your turning right which it sputters pretty badly then rights itself and away you go. The problems stem from the carb being so bad from corrosion in the beginning. So I hope someone takes something away from my crappy experience. Now the Rustyrunner will go down the road to a new home. I wont miss it.

UMMMM I get it, don't turn right :acme:

 

[moparchris]

Okay I had to dig this one up from 5 pages back. So I spent some more time with my AVS. I actually borrowed an AVS from a carb shop as long as I promised to not hook it to my fuel system. I used my fuel cell that I hang from the hood to gravity feed the carb. Well it ran perfect, sort of, didn't get to drive it. So I spend the money to have this reputable carb shop rebuild it. 3 tries later it now runs well although not perfect. I found that the distributor shaft was loose and so I put a reman one in for $53. Anyways now it is down on power although it runs smooth unless your turning right which it sputters pretty badly then rights itself and away you go. The problems stem from the carb being so bad from corrosion in the beginning. So I hope someone takes something away from my crappy experience. Now the Rustyrunner will go down the road to a new home. I wont miss it.

If it sputters when you are turning, your fuel level is to low :cents:

I figured that so I called the carb shop and they are going to remedy it. Shame it takes a comeback to get it right.