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back to the stone age

george68hemirr

I think you guys are full of shit.
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went home from a cruise two weeks ago which was cool out and my little hemi was running at 210 all the way home.....hit the fan motors with my lazer gun and one motor was 20 degrees hotter then the other.....so i said screw all of this and went back to the stone age......MP mechanical water pump/gutted out thermostat/march 6 3/4 pulley/1 inch spacer and a 19 inch stainless flex fan.....drove home from a cruise the other nite.....cool out again.....165 degrees .....big differance.....the stone age works.....having a custom shroud made next week for my be-cool radiator
there is nothing worse then driving down the road and watching your temp gauge.....much more fun now
 

69hemibeep

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George your a cave man anyway, what are you doing thinking outside of the box. Next your going to try and tell me the world is round :jester:
 

george68hemirr

I think you guys are full of shit.
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i was thinking horsepower but i have plenty of that....the world is round???....i will have to ask HAGAR THE HORRIBLE....hes got all the answers :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
 

Basketcase

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I pulled off the plastic Dollar Store flex o crap fan that was on the car when I got it, and cleaned up the 7 blade factory fan off Freebird. Runs alot cooler now.
 

roadrunnerh

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I have to figure out what I am gonna do this summer to solve my "running hot" problem...
I'm not sure if I should just have my original one re-cored, or buy a new aluminum.

No disrespect to Stuie, but after seeing what he went through, I have to give this decision some thought.
I was going to get one of those "Champion" brand, but I'm not willing to modify my car. :jester:
 

V269

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My Champion dropped right in with a very minor adjustment to one lower hole and the car will not run over 175 deg. It does not look correct but then again my car is not numbers matching and I want it to run cool when I drive it. :yesnod:
 

Basketcase

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:huh: dang if I know(Ithink it is) it was supposed to have been rebuilt so one of the POs could do soe weekend racing. but In all the recipts I got with it, there is nothing engine related except for the electronic dizzy, and anyone that knows musta dropped off the planet.
 

roadrunnerh

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V269 said:
My Champion dropped right in with a very minor adjustment to one lower hole and the car will not run over 175 deg. It does not look correct but then again my car is not numbers matching and I want it to run cool when I drive it. :yesnod:

When you say the lower hole, do you mean on the Radiator bracket or the car?

Yeah Chris, my motor is stock.
 

george68hemirr

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yeah chris....its bone modified.....drove home tonite from a cruise.....150 degrees....i have to put in a 160 thermostat to get alittle more heat in the motor....plus sunday i drop it off for a custom shroud to fit this be-cool aluminum radiator....should becool
 

moparchris

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Bob, sore subject buddy. :acme: By the way I think your killer fan clutch was louder than the car!
George, I know yours is about as modified as they come.
Everyone else, what I mean is this: stock cubic inches, stock compression or less, headers and such.

The reason I bring this up is because most of the motors I build and run, I found and this is just my opinion, that they run best with the stock stuff that came from the manufacturer that spent millions on engineering the cooling system. My low eleven second full street car ran a stock cooling system fan and all. The one thing I found was that most radiator shops sell you on the wizbang 27 core radiator when a stock one is more efficient. You can cram more crap in your five pound box but its still a five pound box. By putting a lot of rows in a radiator you actually start to block the flow. When you start upping the compression, put a big cam in it (250 degrees or more), adding cubic inches, and add headers you change the dynamic of the car. Then all bets are off and you are stuck engineering your own cooling system (like George was forced to). The reason I bring all this up is because I take a long hard look at what I am doing when I find myself reinventing the wheel for a stock cubic inch car. In my experience I go back and install quality stock parts (all of them) the car runs cooler than ever. These cars weren't meant to run 160 degrees, they were meant to run between 180 and 200. Obviously when you are pushing the compression to the limits of pump gas the car needs to run cooler to keep it from detonating. We have run back to back dyno test and have found that motors actually make a little more power when they are up to operating temp! Of course its different in a car since underhood temps influence intake air temp. My point is that the stock cooling systems are more than adequate for what we a running for power. A total system approach using quality parts is the way to success. :cents:
 

Basketcase

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well then mine has headers, an Edelbrock Torker, Holley 750DP.
 

droptop

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moparchris said:
Bob, sore subject buddy. :acme: By the way I think your killer fan clutch was louder than the car!
George, I know yours is about as modified as they come.
Everyone else, what I mean is this: stock cubic inches, stock compression or less, headers and such.

The reason I bring this up is because most of the motors I build and run, I found and this is just my opinion, that they run best with the stock stuff that came from the manufacturer that spent millions on engineering the cooling system. My low eleven second full street car ran a stock cooling system fan and all. The one thing I found was that most radiator shops sell you on the wizbang 27 core radiator when a stock one is more efficient. You can cram more crap in your five pound box but its still a five pound box. By putting a lot of rows in a radiator you actually start to block the flow. When you start upping the compression, put a big cam in it (250 degrees or more), adding cubic inches, and add headers you change the dynamic of the car. Then all bets are off and you are stuck engineering your own cooling system (like George was forced to). The reason I bring all this up is because I take a long hard look at what I am doing when I find myself reinventing the wheel for a stock cubic inch car. In my experience I go back and install quality stock parts (all of them) the car runs cooler than ever. These cars weren't meant to run 160 degrees, they were meant to run between 180 and 200. Obviously when you are pushing the compression to the limits of pump gas the car needs to run cooler to keep it from detonating. We have run back to back dyno test and have found that motors actually make a little more power when they are up to operating temp! Of course its different in a car since underhood temps influence intake air temp. My point is that the stock cooling systems are more than adequate for what we a running for power. A total system approach using quality parts is the way to success. :cents:



Oh my, it looks like Chris found the . key. :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
 
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