Ball joint replacement

[Roadcuda]

When I had my car in the shop I asked the guy to check the front end for any potential problems. He found a bad idler arm which I'm replacing today, and he said a lower ball joint is starting to show some play but is safe to drive for now. My question is what kind of job is it to replace the lower ball joint? Is this a screw-in type, or is it pressed in? If it's screwed in are there any special tools needed? I'm looking to save a little money here and maybe do it myself if I can. Thanks.

 

[roadrunnerh]

Steve, I'll be looking at this thread with a lot of interest too.

My lower ball joint have some play...... I'd like some pointers. :huh:

 

[A31PKG]

You're in luck, the LBJ is much easier to replace than the upper. You will need what's sometimes called a "pickle fork" to detatch the joint stud from the lower control arm. To detach the tie rod end, simply give the joint (not the TRE stud) a whack or two with a sledge hammer and the TRE stud should come free. If you use the pickle fork on the TRE, you could damage the grease boot &/or the TRE intself. The rest is just bolts going through the backing plate, spindle, and LBJ. Put the car on jack stands, and then jack up the lower control arm to unload the joint first. An inch or so is fine. The uppers can be more difficult as sometimes the upper control arm cracks where the UBJ screws in, requiring welding to repair. Seen lots of upper ball joints welded in over the years...a no no in my book. There is good info - and a pic or two - in the manual in the reference section too. Good luck!

 

[ACME A12]

Good summary, Craig. I would add:

Leave the LBJ castle nut (castellated nut by its real name) on by a couple of threads until you get the LBJ knocked loose...just in case...much more important on a coil spring car...but it never hurts... Or you can back the torsion bar adjuster off to unload the LCA...

If you don't have a a pickle fork you can bang on the side of the steering knuckle to knock it loose. Use the BFH and it will come loose. And never hit the threaded portion (top) of the LBJ in an attempt to drive it out; it will not come out that way.

Very straight forward job. Both of you can do this. :cheers:

 

[A31PKG]

Good summary, Craig. I would add:

Leave the LBJ castle nut (castellated nut by its real name) on by a couple of threads until you get the LBJ knocked loose...just in case...much more important on a coil spring car...but it never hurts... Or you can back the torsion bar adjuster off to unload the LCA...

If you don't have a a pickle fork you can bang on the side of the steering knuckle to knock it loose. Use the BFH and it will come loose. And never hit the threaded portion (top) of the LBJ in an attempt to drive it out; it will not come out that way.

Very straight forward job. Both of you can do this. :cheers:

X2 Safety first!

 

[Roadcuda]

Thanks guys, that doesn't sound too bad to do. I have a " pickle fork," which I used doing the idler arm today, and I know the trick of leaving the nut on until the stud is loose so it doesn't go flying off. I tried looking on my cd copy of the service manual and it didn't seem very clear on what to do, so this really clears it up. I will give it a try!

 

[SomeCarGuy]

Not a bad job. I think they covered it pretty well.

 

[Roadcuda]

So I'm clear on this, is this the part I would be looking for? I was thinking it would be just the ball joint itself. Thanks.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 81_TOP.jpg

 

[Big John]

So I'm clear on this, is this the part I would be looking for? I was thinking it would be just the ball joint itself. Thanks.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 81_TOP.jpg

Yep, that's the lower ball joint.

 

[Roadcuda]

So I'm clear on this, is this the part I would be looking for? I was thinking it would be just the ball joint itself. Thanks.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 81_TOP.jpg

Yep, that's the lower ball joint.

Thanks boss! That makes me even more confident that I can do this job!

 

[69hemibeep]

So I'm clear on this, is this the part I would be looking for? I was thinking it would be just the ball joint itself. Thanks.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 81_TOP.jpg

Yep, that's the lower ball joint.

Thanks boss! That makes me even more confident that I can do this job!

Who makes the Rock auto stuff, I will be ordering a full kit for the front end I doing and was going to use the vendor that my stuff came from. Just curious

 

[Roadcuda]

So I'm clear on this, is this the part I would be looking for? I was thinking it would be just the ball joint itself. Thanks.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 81_TOP.jpg[/quote]

Yep, that's the lower ball joint.[/quote]
Thanks boss! That makes me even more confident that I can do this job![/quote]
Who makes the Rock auto stuff, I will be ordering a full kit for the front end I doing and was going to use the vendor that my stuff came from. Just curious [/quote]

For most parts they list several vendors for each part Bob. For the ball joints, they have Moog, which I ordered, Raybestos, ACDelco, and a couple of others. I didn't notice that they offered full kits but then I wasn't looking for that.

 

[69hemibeep]

Thanks Steve I'll take a look at them. Moog has two lines from what I was told, the lower line was for stores that put their own label on. But if they advertise it as Moog its most likely the good ones.

 

[Roadcuda]

Thanks Steve I'll take a look at them. Moog has two lines from what I was told, the lower line was for stores that put their own label on. But if they advertise it as Moog its most likely the good ones.

FWIW Bob, the idler arm I got from them came in a box labeled as Moog. I hope you can read the company info on the end of the box.

 

[69hemibeep]

Thanks Steve I'll take a look at them. Moog has two lines from what I was told, the lower line was for stores that put their own label on. But if they advertise it as Moog its most likely the good ones.

FWIW Bob, the idler arm I got from them came in a box labeled as Moog. I hope you can read the company info on the end of the box.

That's good to know!

 

[moparchris]

Being a front end guy of many years, my advice is to use Moog whenever possible.

 

[69hemibeep]

Being a front end guy of many years, my advice is to use Moog whenever possible.

I already have the ball joints that my customer supplied which are TRW and Rock Auto doesn't carry allot of the parts I need.

 

[mcmopar]

I went with a poly kit from Performance Suspension Components. all the parts were quality pieces - no knock-off junk. Another reason I went with them is because the idler arm was included in their kit - unlike just about everyone else who don't include it.

 

[roadrunnerh]

I was hoping that box didn't say made in china.....

At least a few things are still being made in USA.

 

[Roadcuda]

I was hoping that box didn't say made in china.....

At least a few things are still being made in USA.

yeah Harry, I had to look again to make sure it really said what I thought it did!