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Carb / horn

sam z

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Holley 750 mechanical secondary double pump.
Get a big fat bog when you hammer if from a dead
stop then roars to life. Accelerator pump? Anyone?

If I buy a new horn, does anybody sell them new that
actually sound like there supposed to? I welcome all
suggestions.

-Sam
 

69hemibeep

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sam z said:
Holley 750 mechanical secondary double pump.
Get a big fat bog when you hammer if from a dead
stop then roars to life. Accelerator pump? Anyone?

If I buy a new horn, does anybody sell them new that
actually sound like there supposed to? I welcome all
suggestions.

-Sam
Sam I may have a new repop that works, let me dig around. :beep:
 

mac

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sam z said:
Holley 750 mechanical secondary double pump.
Get a big fat bog when you hammer if from a dead
stop then roars to life. Accelerator pump? Anyone?

If I buy a new horn, does anybody sell them new that
actually sound like there supposed to? I welcome all
suggestions.

-Sam

to me, a mechanical secondary carb for the street is not the best choice. :cents:
 

mcmopar

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The bog is usually caused by the secondaries opening up before there is sufficient rpm to handle the additional airflow. Are you running a manual or auto trans? Usually DP carbs aren't recommended for auto trans cars unless you have a high stall converter and stiff gears. DP cars are usually better suited to manual trans cars because of their ability to be revved up into the necessary operating range before dumping the secondaries open.
You'd be better served with a carb that has vacuum operated secondaries on the street. Install Holley's quick change secondary spring pot and you can fine tune your secondary opening reaction (sooner or later) with just the simple change of a secondary spring. Choose a stiff spring for later (slower) opening secondaries or a softer spring for sooner (quicker) opening secondaries. With the quick change pot you can change the spring in under a couple of minutes. This is the setup I have on my 750 and it works great.
 

sam z

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Ok, I'll wait to hear something on the horn.

Also, I interpret that I would need to use a spring that was on
the stiff side to POSSIBLY cure the issue. Is this correct based upon
my understanding?

Thanks.
 

69hemibeep

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sam z said:
Ok, I'll wait to hear something on the horn.

Also, I interpret that I would need to use a spring that was on
the stiff side to POSSIBLY cure the issue. Is this correct based upon
my understanding?

Thanks.
PM sent :yesnod: I agree with John on the vacuum secondaries I have one setup that way :thumbsup:
 

mcmopar

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sam z said:
Ok, I'll wait to hear something on the horn.

Also, I interpret that I would need to use a spring that was on
the stiff side to POSSIBLY cure the issue. Is this correct based upon
my understanding?

Thanks.

Not on a double pump carb. The double pump (DP) carbs use a mechanical linkage between the primary and secondary barrels. The opening of the secondaries on a double pump carb is not adjustable unless you can find different length linkage rods which connect the primary and secondary throttle shafts. I'm not even sure anything like that exists.
The stiffer spring scenario only works for vacuum secondary carbs.
 

moparchris

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I have run a 750 vacuum secondaries on my stock 383 extensively. I have also tried a 750 double pumper on it as well to try out this myth. I can say with great certainty that there is NO difference in performance between the 2. Now with that said the DP did require a good amount of tuning to eliminate the bog associated with the sudden opening of the secondaries. The Vacuum also needed a fair amount of tuning to achieve its best as well which included the lightest spring, which will open the secondaries quickest. The DP was way snappier on the street. One interesting side note is that the Vacuum carb did 60' better. I have also played with the carbs on one of the small block I have dynoed in the past and at 400hp level the vacuum carb fell way short (25hp). One of the things I tried in the dyno cell is to run the engine and make a pull. When the engine starts to accelerate I go out into the dyno cell and manually check to see if the secondaries are open. They were not open and I was able to regain the 25hp by reaching out and holding open the secondaries by hand. I think this is a myth started by a few cars that werent tuned right. :soap:

Okay now thats over with, lets get back to your problem. I would start with the accelerator pump squirters. Start with one end, probably the secondaries, move down a size in squirter until it stops bogging or gets worse. If its gets worse at the first change you went the wrong way, so put a bigger one in. Once you find the sweet spot move on to the primaries. Same progression. After all that is done make sure you have .030 clearance between the pump arms on the accelerator pump and the lever that comes from the linkage. Once thats set and the bog continues move on to accelerator pump cams found bolted onto the throttle shaft. This can be a long drawn out process but once its right hang on!
 
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