checking ground wires

[69383RR]

I've heard many times ,check the ground wire when something doesn't work . Is there a way to check wires to see if they are good other then tracing every inch to find if it is a bad ground or some other problem ?

 

[Big John]

Buy yourself a decent digital multimeter. You don't need all the bells and whistles, checking DC voltage, resistance and continuity will be the main tasks you need to do. If it chimes for continuity, that's very handy.

You can then check wires for continuity to ground and check to see if you have voltage where there needs to be voltage.

 

[69383RR]

I know I need to buy a multimeter and then learn how to use it , I 've been lucky in the electrical department so far with only minor problems but its only a matter of time .

 

[Basketcase]

I've been blessed with the lack of electrical problems with old car, the sole exception was the POS '74 Torino I had for my second car. I had enough trouble with that that I think that keeps me trouble free now.
As far as mopars the only trouble was the non working gas gauge on my last runner. It seems like the main thing on these is the bulkhead connecter.

 

[inri]

If there's a Harbor Freight near you, you can sometimes snag a digital electric multimeter for $5.49 +tax.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter

 

[Basketcase]

I got min from Lowes for $10

 

[Big John]

If there's a Harbor Freight near you, you can sometimes snag a digital electric multimeter for $5.49 +tax.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter

Junk.

I bought a couple once. One to toss in the boat and one for my road tool box. I tried one... It went up in smoke.... so I broke the second one out. Same smoke.

 

[Basketcase]

hmmmm...maybe it was just the user......:acme:

 

[4spd69RR]

Yep, first thing I tell everyone when they start have electrical issues, check the grounds. With these older cars the ground connections have either loosened or they have corrosion on the connection. A good DVM will help find a lot of your wiring issues.

 

[Big John]

hmmmm...maybe it was just the user......:acme:

OK... I'm man enough.... I'll admit to letting the magic smoke out of a few electronic pieces in my day....

 

[Basketcase]

.:jester:

 

[4spd69RR]

So should we nick name you Smoke and Fire!

 

[inri]

.:jester:

Here's a pic for ya.

 

[mac]

having a test light with the leds is a big help or getting a tool called a power probe. that's the name I didn't make it up.

something like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Aut...d=100011&prg=1005&rk=1&rkt=5&sd=321003064770&

or this. http://www.mechanicstoolswarehouse.com/Power-Probe-I-19-P28568.aspx

 

[mac]

plus you can use a digital meter on the volt setting to check for opens or continuity.

 

[Big John]

having a test light with the leds is a big help or getting a tool called a power probe. that's the name I didn't make it up.

something like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Pro-Aut...d=100011&prg=1005&rk=1&rkt=5&sd=321003064770&



or this. http://www.mechanicstoolswarehouse.com/Power-Probe-I-19-P28568.aspx

Much better alternative to a broken powerglide with a trans brake.

 

[moparmonk]

Here's my moto for electical problems.... "Humans put them together, so humans can fix them"! Remember that, and consult this site with specific issues and you will do fine. Grab yourself a decent voltmeter, (cheap ones will work but you get what you pay for) and you will amaze yourself. A couple small 4-5 foot chunk of 14, 12, or 10 gauge wire with a clip leads on each end (and a fuse holder in-line with it if your really cautious) will fix about everything on these cars. Keep in mind that when these cars were made and being actively worked on at the dealers, a Digital voltmeter wasn't even heard of. Your already light years ahead of some of the techs back then!! Think of it as plumbing with a stream that moves at the speed of light. Hello... thats why they call it current!! Big John is far to smart to blow up two meters in a row... I think he must of been doing a starter amp draw test in the mA (milli-Amp) Range!

 

[4spd69RR]

He really didn't kill his meters, there is a fuse soldered to the cca inside of the meter just for that reason. He probably blew the fuse inside.

 

[Big John]

He really didn't kill his meters, there is a fuse soldered to the cca inside of the meter just for that reason. He probably blew the fuse inside.

Nope. not those cheap ones.... The fuse was DMM itself. Chinese crap is just that... Chinese crap.

A good meter (like maybe a Fluke 87) has two fuses inside in case you do something dumb. If memory serves, 400mA and 15A fuses for most of them.

I'm not an electronics tech but I do know what I'm doing...

 

[69383RR]

I checked out youtube and found some info on how to choose from the many multimeters out there . Still a bit confusing with all the choices , but I think the auto range finder deserves a second look ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh1n_ELmpFI