Crankshaft Damper Bolt Removal

[zupanj]

It has been a few years since I have done this and I don't remember how I kept the engine from turning when removing the damper bolt. I am thinking about using my air driven 1/2" impact wrench to do the trick. Does anyone know of a reason why it shouldn't be done that way?

Thanks

Jack

 

[69hemibeep]

It has been a few years since I have done this and I don't remember how I kept the engine from turning when removing the damper bolt. I am thinking about using my air driven 1/2" impact wrench to do the trick. Does anyone know of a reason why it shouldn't be done that way?

Thanks

Jack

Jack that will do the trick without rotating the engine, its fine thread so you just have to bust it loose

 

[metalstorm]

as long as you have the room and air supply.A hit on a wrench/braker bar with a big hammer will get it loose.One time I was doing a leak test and the bar was still on the crank and when the bar hit the frame it broke loose the bolt but I was not trying to do that.

 

[moparchris]

Put it in gear and use a breaker bar. An impact is the way to go if you have the room.

 

[zupanj]

Chris,

That is the way I did it last time but I wanted to keep it at TDC this time. Used an impact wrench and it worked like a charm without moving the crank.

 

[moparchris]

You can always put the balancer back on till it's snug by hand and line the marks back up. Or you can line up the marks on the timing gear when you get the cover off. You really should use a piston stop to find TDC and confirm that the balancer is accurate.

 

[Basketcase]

Put it in gear and use a breaker bar. An impact is the way to go if you have the room.

that's what I did, plus I had my daughter sit in the car and stand on the brakes!

 

[ACME A12]

Jack:

What ever happened with your car? Maybe you posted this and I just missed it... Last I read you were tearing the front end off (hence this thread) to look for clues. What did you find and is the car fixed now?

Ray

 

[zupanj]

Well the car is running now. It is a little embarrassing actually. I did tear the front down and found no problem. The dots were lined up, the chain was in good shape and the distributor gear looked new. I took a second look at the distributor cap which I replaced when it wouldn't start and noticed that there were two #1 marks on the cap. The first mark was for clockwise rotation (small blocks) and two towers over a second #1 mark for counterclockwise rotation (big blocks). I carelessly put the wires on the wrong #1 so in fact at that point I was indeed 180º out of phase.

I still don't know why it wouldn't start in the first place. I put in a small electric fuel pump in last winter and I thought it would fix the hard starting problems. It seemed to work well for a while but the engine is hard to start again. I wonder if putting in the 1/4" return line I just added is preventing fuel getting to the carbs. I just started the car the other day after sitting for two weeks. I ran the electric pump for 1 minute and then started cranking. It took 2 1/2 minutes of cranking for the engine to finally fire. I am now thinking about a bigger electric pump but I really wanted to keep an ugly fuel pressure regulator out of the engine bay.

On a happier note I took the Mustang out for two track days at New Jersey Motorsports Park last week and had a ball. The car really impressed me and I love the power, I hit 123 mph on the straights. However I did burn up the brakes pretty quickly. Looking to put in a better set up, probably the Brembos before the next weekend comes up.

 

[ACME A12]

Glad to hear you got it sorted out, Jack.

I'm sure that tracking the Mustang was an absolute blast. Brake upgrade will be a huge plus. Careful not to be too effusive in your praise of the Mustang; you'll get the knuckledraggers all upset... Fortunately they will be tied up for 10 minutes looking up "effusive" in the dictionary...:basketcase:

:jester:

 

[69hemibeep]

Jack after running the electric pump have you looked down the carb to see if its pumping gas before cranking it? Im just guessing but any electric pump after a minute would prime the system so I bet the mechanical pump blocks the gas and 2 1/2 minutes of cranking with a mechanical pump indicates (1) flooded or (2) bad pump, rod or the electric pump is blocking gas when off. Have you tried cranking it with the electric on? Oh Ray what's a dictionary :basketcase:

 

[moparchris]

Glad to hear you got it sorted out, Jack.

I'm sure that tracking the Mustang was an absolute blast. Brake upgrade will be a huge plus. Careful not to be too effusive in your praise of the Mustang; you'll get the knuckledraggers all upset... Fortunately they will be tied up for 10 minutes looking up "effusive" in the dictionary...:basketcase:

:jester:

Curmudgeon comes to mind for yourself :acme:

Thats Mr Knuckledragger to you BTW

Jack after running the electric pump have you looked down the carb to see if its pumping gas before cranking it? Im just guessing but any electric pump after a minute would prime the system so I bet the mechanical pump blocks the gas and 2 1/2 minutes of cranking with a mechanical pump indicates (1) flooded or (2) bad pump, rod or the electric pump is blocking gas when off. Have you tried cranking it with the electric on? Oh Ray what's a dictionary :basketcase:

I have been thinking about Jacks problem. So I went out to the garage after just about a month of sitting, I hop in the Bee and cranked it for 13.7 seconds and it fired up. Its stock, no return line, and no electric pump. I am going to guess that the electric pump is doing something to the system and possibly there is lack of proper venting not allowing the fuel to come up the line when the low pressure signal is coming up from the mechanical pump.

 

[zupanj]

Interesting thought all. The fuel pump rod is brand new and I know it was pumping because I was pushing fuel through the fuel line when it was disconnected from the carbs. It may not be pumping enough fuel. I didn't check this last time but the time before the squirters were not pumping fuel when I opened the throttle. I do know that I couldn't push fuel up the lines with just the electric pump. It seemed that everything it could push would go through the return line. Since that is only 1/4" maybe that indicates something is wrong with the pump. I guess I could check that out. I do keep the electric pump on until the engine runs so that is not the problem.