dead short

[red 69 runner]

just installed my new m&h dash harness and new charger specialtys circuit board.I bolted the gauge cluster to the dash but did not install the switch bezel yet all switch plugs are separated and not touching any thing,I wanted to start the car to move it and when I went to connect the neg battery cable I got a big zap like a dead short.if I unbolt the gauge cluster and it isnt touching the dash the neg cable can touch the battery with out the short.the black and red wires that connect to the gauge cluster are connected the same way I disconnected them but seems they are connected by the metal tab underneath the bolts,could there have been something in my old harness that was disconnected and now with the new harness is causing a short.the only other things I added were a new rear lights harness and a orig used radio I bought off e-bay.any ideas would be helpful.

 

[A31PKG]

Not familiar with "M&H" wiring harnesses? Are these the Year One units?

Can you post pics of the metal tab/area you describe?

 

[moparchris]

Not familiar with "M&H" wiring harnesses? Are these the Year One units?

Can you post pics of the metal tab/area you describe?

M&H makes a killer reproduction harness, i bought mine through year one. It sounds like the amp gauge wires are the area where you need to look. Is the Charger Specialties circuit board set up for amps or volts?

 

[Basketcase]

I was thinking the amp gauge wires myself...

 

[A31PKG]

Not familiar with "M&H" wiring harnesses? Are these the Year One units?

Can you post pics of the metal tab/area you describe?

M&H makes a killer reproduction harness, i bought mine through year one. It sounds like the amp gauge wires are the area where you need to look. Is the Charger Specialties circuit board set up for amps or volts?

I had heard that the Year One Harnesses were of high quality.... this is why I asked. I'm guessing the "metal tab" is in the area of the amp gauge lugs. Even if it was converted to a volt gauge, and wired as if it were still an ammeter, I fail to see how a short circuit could occur. I would like to see a pic of the circuit board in question......I'm thinking there is an issue with the amp gauge &/or wiring as well.

 

[red 69 runner]

got home and started playing with it again,I disconnected the red from the ammeter and put it back on.I just installed a new factory tach so I had to remove the fuse block to pull the hot wire off where i connected it.i also disconnected and reconnected the ignition switch plug.hooked up the battery and no sparks.turned the key and the car started.reconnected the tach and it worked.seems like everything is ok now but kind of scary since everything is new from the tail light bulbs to the fire wall except my amp gauge.and the gauge is working,it shows charging.ill keep you all updated as i get the switch panel and all the switches hooked up.

 

[Roadcuda]

got home and started playing with it again,I disconnected the red from the ammeter and put it back on.I just installed a new factory tach so I had to remove the fuse block to pull the hot wire off where i connected it.i also disconnected and reconnected the ignition switch plug.hooked up the battery and no sparks.turned the key and the car started.reconnected the tach and it worked.seems like everything is ok now but kind of scary since everything is new from the tail light bulbs to the fire wall except my amp gauge.and the gauge is working,it shows charging.ill keep you all updated as i get the switch panel and all the switches hooked up.

From the sounds of it you didn't really find the problem but at least it's working now. Maybe you had something reversed and didn't realize it. I hate doing the electrical stuff!

 

[red 69 runner]

got everything hooked back up and all works no,dash lights even have reverse lights now.I was wondering if my problem could have been from the gauge cluster not being secured with all the screws.I only had 2 at the top when I was haveing the problem,when I added the rest of the screws it seemed the problem went away.i dont know but I am happy now but just a little wary,could the problem return .still have to pull the sending unit in the gas tank,new gauge only reads half and I know the tank is almost full,cleaned and tested the dimmer switch but have to move it a little for the dash lights to come on,should have bought a new one,any body ever replace one from under the dash without haveing to pull the switch bezel,what a pain in the butt.they should have made the padding go on after the switch bezel is in instead of the way it is now,I had to plug my light switches in from under neath after the bezel was in,hopefully i can replace the dimmer switch without taking all that apart again.any way thanks for your help . Mike