Dropping Motor In

[BBillyC]

Can I slip the baby in with headers on.
They were such a pain in the A$$ to get them off when they were in, I can only imagine how hard they will be to put back on. So I'm thinking will the motor drop in with them attached? Were almost there. There is a mopar only car show here on Monday and I'm hoping to be there. Thats if the cam breaks in OK.

Best regards. You guys have gotten me through this. :cheers:

Bill

 

[Basketcase]

you have to slip the headers in when the engine is part way in. I do believe the TTis are really easy to put on with the engine in place.

 

[george68hemirr]

you have to slip the headers in when the engine is part way in. I do believe the TTis are really easy to put on with the engine in place.

WHAT BASKETCASE SAID

 

[moparmoose3]

you have to slip the headers in when the engine is part way in. I do believe the TTis are really easy to put on with the engine in place.

if you put them on after the motor is in you might want to loosen up and move the centerlink from the left side. mcmopar and i found it was real easy then. :banana:

 

[Hoosier Bird]

I'm doing the same thing this weekend..............you beat me to the question.......

 

[ACME A12]

Cool! We'll have two sets of new engine install pictures in the next couple of days...

:jester:

 

[mcmopar]

Yup - you won't get them in the car on the engine unless you install the engine/K-member in from the bottom. drop the engine in until it is about 1/2"-1" above the mounting points on the k-member and then install the headers. This will give you more room to work but be careful and don't let it swing and hit the firewall or inner fenders. Remember to put some padding all around to protect the firewall and inner fenders, too.
As Jerry said, remember to get the centerlink out of the way by turning the steering wheel to get the link knuckles out of the way. If you have tti headers its a breeze.

 

[V269]

I have Doug Thorley headers and they both slipped in from underneath with no problem. Left the drivers side loose until I bolted in the starter and bolted up the header. Piece of cake. :jester:

 

[BBillyC]

Great tips. Engine in, headers on, driveline all hooked up, rad and coolant, oil and gear oil, shifter linkage, electrical, primed the oil before putting the distributor in, yaddy yadda. Couple of things in the morning, put the plugs in and its time to fire it up. A couple of finishing touches and the bird goes to its first mopar show on Monday. I can't wait.

 

[Hoosier Bird]

Great tips. Engine in, headers on, driveline all hooked up, rad and coolant, oil and gear oil, shifter linkage, electrical, primed the oil before putting the distributor in, yaddy yadda. Couple of things in the morning, put the plugs in and its time to fire it up. A couple of finishing touches and the bird goes to its first mopar show on Monday. I can't wait.

Where are all the pictures? :toetap:

 

[BBillyC]

I will post some soon. The XE285HL cam is awesome though not sure where it would like the timing set at yet. Broke it in for 25 minutes and dumped the oil and filter. Proceeded to put the rest of the stuff on the car. Just some odds and ends and it will be ready. I really owe a debt of gratitude to my wife for putting up with me through this......and to all of you as well who offered such great advice.

 

[mcmopar]

I first set the timing on mine to 36 degrees centrifugal (no vacuum advance) at 2400 rpm then reduce rpm back down to idle (900-1000 rpm with that cam). Using a 3/32" Allen wrench, place the wrench in the vacuum advance nipple until it seats and turn the wrench all the way to the left, counting the number of turns (so you know what your original setting was). Then turn it all the way to the right, counting the number of turns and divide by 2. Then turn it back to the left by the number of turns the divided number turned out to be. Usually the middle position will be 8 turns from either right or left. Hook up the vacuum advance hose from the distributor to the carb and road test. If it starts to ping under load you can try adjusting the vacuum advance canister (taking advance out) with the 3/32" Allen wrench by turning it to the left (always count the number of turns so you know where your settings are). If that doesn't reduce the pinging turn it back to the middle position and reduce your centrifugal advance by 2 degrees at a time until ping is under control. A Mopar Performance timing tape will help, or I can make you a paper one you can paste to your damper. Just measure the diameter of the damper and let me know what it is. It should be the same as mine if you are running the forged crank engine. If you are running a cast crank engine the damper is different.

 

[BBillyC]

Thanks for the valuable information. I will give that a whirl today and see how it goes. Let you know later. thanks again. :cheers:

 

[BBillyC]

Took it for its maiden voyage tonight. Still a little retarded and have to get a better timing light. I thought I had it really advanced turns out it was retarded by a wack of degrees. With the light only flashing once in while I was finally able to get a brief look and I was able to get it to TDC before the light quit for good (another thing I'll have to pull apart and fix). Anyway at TDC it want to stall when it got to around 1000 rpm. So tweeking in order with both the timing and the Holley 850DP.

But off for a drive went my wife and I, and it wasn't a lame duck at all. Lots of jam. When I get the top end worked out I'm sure it will really rock.

 

[george68hemirr]

congrads on getting her in and going for a ride arty: arty: arty: arty: