Freeze plugs..going bad!!

woodwiz

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I have got for sure a couple of freeze plugs that are very questionable. One of them is behind the 383 starter and maybe one over on the passenger side,but not all are bad. I guess my question is: Is it possible to pull out the bad ones while the motor is in? Just can’t see any time in the near future where an engine pull is possible to really do it right. Don’t want to just let it sit,that would probably be worse!
 

quikbird

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Most of plugs can be reached except for the one behind the motor mount, not easily but can be reached
 

MoparDan

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I have got for sure a couple of freeze plugs that are very questionable. One of them is behind the 383 starter and maybe one over on the passenger side,but not all are bad. I guess my question is: Is it possible to pull out the bad ones while the motor is in? Just can’t see any time in the near future where an engine pull is possible to really do it right. Don’t want to just let it sit,that would probably be worse!
You can get to them. Like quickbird said, you will have to remove the motor mount. I always replace all at the same time, because usually if one goes the others are nor far behind.
 

quikbird

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Once you get them out the bigger problem is trying to get the new ones in when cant get much of a swing in the right direction. Very little room.
 

woodwiz

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I’ve also heard it would be best to pull the motor and do them all and any other stuff that needs attention. I’m hearing 8hrs of labor,said that was because they had to be supper careful with the paint. The plugs I can get to and install I may take a shot at it when I feel like making a huge mess in my shop. I does have some super duper,supposed to work,stop leak tablet form in the radiator maybe the stuff goes to the weak link in the cooling system…don’t know!
 

V.R.D

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remove the block drain plugs to drain the lowest part of the block and it wont be as messy
 

woodwiz

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I saw those and that would be a little more controlled of a drain. Also heard a good idea to coat the backside of the plug with rtv and let them cure a bit then no liquid comes in contact with metal or brass of the plug.
Right now it’s a crap shoot with the stop leak pills that they look for those bad freeze plugs and buy me some more time before a engine pull.
 

V.R.D

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you can replace the ones that are leaking when removed feel and see if there is a lot of crud down in the coolant passage if there is a lot then make a tube to flush with water and rtv skins up when wet it is a trick i have used to speed up curing of the rtv.
 

woodwiz

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This is probably a very backyard way of doing things,but has anybody ever tried JB weld (wet) with any success? I know it’s not the best method,just trying to buy some time.
 

woodwiz

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Saw those. Says they don’t fit the 383 block,but it’s not a bad temp fix if I find the right fit.
 

V.R.D

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Saw those. Says they don’t fit the 383 block,but it’s not a bad temp fix if I find the right fit.
you need the correct size i have used them before so they do have the size you need .
 

woodwiz

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That’s how I kinda think about it. No doubt it does work,but like a bandaid. Sooner or later ya gotta rip that sucker off and heal it right. I feel like it was a “snake oil” day. I put some of that additive that lowers your coolant temp. We’ll see!
 

Russ69Runner

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I was going to say that black pepper was used to get me home a few times. You need the large grain pepper to do a good job. It is not a long-time fix.
 
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