Front brake drum

Appologies for the thread hijack.Been looking at some replacement drums for the front brakes on my RR. The ones on it have the bearing carrier built into the drum but the replacements I have found on the net all seem to have just a plain drum like the ones on the back brakes.Do they press out?
 
Yes they do and the new drums should be turned again after the hub and drum are married to make sure they are true to the hub.
 
Appologies for the thread hijack.Been looking at some replacement drums for the front brakes on my RR. The ones on it have the bearing carrier built into the drum but the replacements I have found on the net all seem to have just a plain drum like the ones on the back brakes.Do they press out?

Thanks Bob :cheers:
 
might want to have the drums trueness checked before you by them.
 
There are some drums out there that do not press on the hub. We went through this on another guy's thread and droptop clued us in. The old ones still press off, but the new one might not need to be pressed together.

The studs are swedged in and the center hub is a press fit.

If the hub isn't pressed in, I'd say you don't have to turn the drum.
 
There are some drums out there that do not press on the hub. We went through this on another guy's thread and droptop clued us in. The old ones still press off, but the new one might not need to be pressed together.

The studs are swedged in and the center hub is a press fit.

If the hub isn't pressed in, I'd say you don't have to turn the drum.

That would hold true about turning the drum but I have never seen a one piece hub and drum for a 69
 
Appologies for the thread hijack.Been looking at some replacement drums for the front brakes on my RR. The ones on it have the bearing carrier built into the drum but the replacements I have found on the net all seem to have just a plain drum like the ones on the back brakes.Do they press out?
I know this is an old thread, but I am having a similar issue. I need replacement front drums for my Runner and the ones I see online don't have the hub on them. How do I remove the hubs off my old drums and press them onto the new drums?
 
Actually my drums are fine, I need a new hub assembly. One of the wheel studs is chewed up and all the studs were welded in place. I think replacing the hub would be easier than getting that stud out of there.
 
Actually my drums are fine, I need a new hub assembly. One of the wheel studs is chewed up and all the studs were welded in place. I think replacing the hub would be easier than getting that stud out of there.
Mike. why do you think you need to replace the hub? (They usually do not separate from the drum).
 
It's kind of weird, but someone welded the wheel studs onto the back of the hub and one of the studs is chewed up and needs to be replaced. I might be able to air chisel it out of there but I might end up damaging the hub. I found used hubs on eBay that I can install on new drums. The drums I see online do not have hubs, like you're supposed to use your old ones.
 
It's kind of weird, but someone welded the wheel studs onto the back of the hub and one of the studs is chewed up and needs to be replaced. I might be able to air chisel it out of there but I might end up damaging the hub. I found used hubs on eBay that I can install on new drums. The drums I see online do not have hubs, like you're supposed to use your old ones.
It's kind of weird, but someone welded the wheel studs onto the back of the hub and one of the studs is chewed up and needs to be replaced. I might be able to air chisel it out of there but I might end up damaging the hub. I found used hubs on eBay that I can install on new drums. The drums I see online do not have hubs, like you're supposed to use your old ones.
How big are your drums? If they are the same size as mine, I'm going to put disk brakes on mine. You can have the drums.
 
Hi Dan. I bought an XL drum puller ($269 :BangHead:) and off it came. The hub separated nicely. I may still be interested in buying your drums when you do the conversion if you don't plan on keeping them. I replaced the rear wheel cylinders and bought a pneumatic bleeder to bleed the brakes. I don't have anyone to help me bleed them, so I thought it would easier. In the past, I would bleed brakes by leaning something heavy against the brake pedal and open a bleeder, close it and then set the brake pedal up again. It's slow but it works. I noticed I wasn't getting any brake fluid to the rear brakes. Working my way back from the wheel cylinder to the distribution block on the rear end then to the rubber brake hose and everything was dry. Then I disconnected the brake line coming into the rubber brake hose and found fluid. So the rubber brake hose was clogged. Probably deteriorated from the inside. I replaced the rubber hose and replaced the rear brake lines using stainless lines. Trying to bleed them now and went through 1.5 cans of fluid and still getting very fine air bubbles. It may be the pneumatic bleeder is sucking in some air, can't tell. I'll probably end up going back to the old bleeding method and see if it improves. Let me know how your project is going. Take care. Mike
 
Last edited:
Back
Top