Fuel Sending units - NEW ONES SUCK - Considering a tech video on adjutments

[bigmanjbmopar]

I made a short video hopefully explaining some of why the repop sending units do not read accurately, Don't laugh to hard it's my first talkie! lol

[video] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxsNvqyq4Ts[/video]

Will try to follow up when the new repops shows up, bought from Vans on ebay. $36 same 5/16"

If you need info on how to test this out yourself at home let me know its as easy as you see to do. And as you can see I didn't fry the gauge! lol

 

[Basketcase]

can I have your autograph and say I knew you when?
thanks for the video.seems this ids a problem for alot of guys.

 

[Budnicks]

That link doesn't work for me, says not available... Possibly a problem could be bad ground/bad resistance or did you properly ground the sending unit, in stock configuration it has a flat clipped on with a strap going from the fuel outlet nipple to the steel fuel line, just past the rubber hose connection or to the chassis/body somewhere if you don't have the steel lines anymore, it's a pretty common mistake on the sending units... dark blue wire is the sending unit/fuel gauge wire it work with resistance thru the sending & a ground...

 

[Basketcase]

that ground strap is a funny thing. I've had a couple cars that didn't have'm and the gauge worked fine.

 

[Budnicks]

that ground strap is a funny thing. I've had a couple cars that didn't have'm and the gauge worked fine.

there is a rubber seal between the sending unit & the tank, but the lock ring touches the tank, so it should make some continuity/ground, I think the strap is a way to make sure... The tank also has rubber under the metal tank straps & mine has it on-top of the fuel tank between the body trunk floor & fuel tank too, isolating it from the body/ground, but albeit not very well, but also enough to screw up the continuity/ground, for the fuel gauge to work properly... Also I have all non metal Aeroquip Lite Fuel lines in my car so I put/soldered a ground to the sending unit at the base of the fuel out nipple {out of the car} & a ring terminal on the other end, ground down a spot on the body for good contact/continuity use dielectric grease on it too & grounded it to the body, no strap either... In my experiences for some reason the ground needs to be close to the "fuel out nipple" {hence the original MoPar ground strap maybe} as possible to work the best, or the fuel gauge reading & resistance are different & gauge show much differently, go figure... remember the guage works thru ground - not 12vt +, power there would not be a good idea...

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

The youtube link does not work? I t should it's set for public viewing. [video=youtube_share;ZxsNvqyq4Ts]http://youtu.be/ZxsNvqyq4Ts[/video]

That link doesn't work for me, says not available... Possibly a problem could be bad ground/bad resistance or did you properly ground the sending unit, in stock configuration it has a flat clipped on with a strap going from the fuel outlet nipple to the steel fuel line, just past the rubber hose connection or to the chassis/body somewhere if you don't have the steel lines anymore, it's a pretty common mistake on the sending units... dark blue wire is the sending unit/fuel gauge wire it work with resistance thru the sending & a ground...

 

[Budnicks]

you could bend the rod that holds the float too, to fine tune the gauge reading, pretty good video, good tips, good luck with the next one... my original sending unit readings was never very accurate either