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I chose the 2" Sun gauge package, mounted right under the ashtray, along with oil pressure and voltmeter. The lower ashtray retainer screws lined up with the 3-gauge bracket- pretty slick.
The temperature sender itself is mounted in the top of the water housing just like a6T9vette. I used the brass adapter which fit in place of the top drain plug. Permatex #2 to seal the threads.
From the electrical schematics it looks like either a dark blue-traced wire from the ignition switch or something on the fuse block will be a good switched source for the VM. I like to have a VM especially when you bypass the ammeter.
update 8/08 For anyone doing this, aftermarket voltmeter and gauge lights connect right off the fuse block using spade connectors. The voltmeter should be switched with the key and the gauge lights operate from the dash light switch.
I wonder if anyone has been successful with the chrome necks- and what they did to make them work? Maybe its a big secret and they're all having a good laugh. When they fail, either the flange warps from over-tightening or the chrome peels off? Anyhow my setup with the water pump RTV and no gasket passed the test with the engine up to temperature. I appreciate the input and ideas once again.
My chrome neck leaked on the first start up, I was going to change it to the stocker but liked it better so what I did was buy the Fel-Pro gasket, which is about .040" thick. I then sprayed both sides of it with Permatex High Tack quite liberally and installed it. I've put about 800 miles on it since and no signs of leakage.
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