Instrument cluster voltage regulator

[Newbird]

Started trying to restore my original instrument cluster but I think the voltage regulator is shot. Trying to find a replacement online I kept getting an image of something that doesn't look like the one that was on the back of the panel. The only one I found that resembles the one that was on there says it's for a 1966 Mustang. The image that comes during the search wouldn't fit my cluster. Is the attached VR image correct for the '74?



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[Russ69Runner]

See if Don Hall has anything. Maybe something in the classic industries book.

 

[Vaanth]

Started trying to restore my original instrument cluster but I think the voltage regulator is shot. Trying to find a replacement online I kept getting an image of something that doesn't look like the one that was on the back of the panel. The only one I found that resembles the one that was on there says it's for a 1966 Mustang. The image that comes during the search wouldn't fit my cluster. Is the attached VR image correct for the '74?



View attachment 39963?

The linked image is for the Standard Motor Products VRC604 which is the replacement for Chrysler part number 2209216. This instrument voltage regulator, or limiter, is for E-bodies and some C-bodies. It is not the same as the 1971 - 1974 B-body Rallye cluster instrument voltage regulator.

The instrument voltage regulator for the 1971 - 1974 B-bodies with Rallye instrument cluster, including the 1974 Road Runner, is Chrysler part number 2985707 which looks like the following image:


The aftermarket did not support this version like it did others. Electrically it is the same as the 2209216 unit and other Chrysler instrument voltage regulators, but mounts differently. The 2209216 instrument voltage regulator or others such as the common 2258413 (or 3592899), can be adapted to work in place of the 2985707 unit. The 2209216 instrument voltage regulator is closest with its mount and connections, but is not listed as a replacement because the original application part numbers differ.

Some Ford instrument voltage regulators are similar to the Chrysler units because Ford had their version of the King-Seeley style gauges like Chrysler used, although there is some variation. Ford number B9M2 10804C or C5VF 10804A looks similar to the 2209216 E-body instrument voltage regulator with the same mounting, but one terminal where the Chrysler unit has a dual terminal mounted, as shown in the following image:

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[Newbird]

Thanks a million and out of desperation I have already ordered the one from Walmart which is the only one that came up in the search. It's great to know people and web sites where a newby can learn a few things and in detail which is also great. The original limiter, to use the correct term had a ground connection as part of the body but the new part doesn't. Would it work to use the original ground connector and put the new limiter over it without trying to solder it?

 

[69hemibeep]

I had a standard bi metal one fail and smoke my gauges now this is all I use. https://www.rt-eng.com/index.php/RTE_limiter.html

 

[Vaanth]

Thanks a million and out of desperation I have already ordered the one from Walmart which is the only one that came up in the search. It's great to know people and web sites where a newby can learn a few things and in detail which is also great. The original limiter, to use the correct term had a ground connection as part of the body but the new part doesn't. Would it work to use the original ground connector and put the new limiter over it without trying to solder it?

Yes, as long as the ground connection to the body of the limiter is good. The metal body of the limiter grounds with the metal cluster housing on the E-body, through the mounting screws to the dash, on to chassis ground. The B-body cluster has a metal housing too, and can ground sufficiently, but the metal bracket on the B-body limiter has the 5/16" male spade terminal made into it for a more assured ground through the wiring (circuit X10A, with an 18 gauge black with white tracer wire and terminal) as shown in the following images:




To retain the ground wire connection, remove the bracket from the old B-body limiter and place under the replacement E-body limiter, or fabricate another terminal connection for the X10A wire, such as a jumper wire with a spade terminal and ring terminal fastened under the limiter mounting screw.

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[Newbird]

Thanks again and if the wiring connections shown in the second image is correct I think that may be why my limiter failed. As found, the 12V supply was connected to the
5V output with the 5V and suppressor connected to the double terminal.