Master Cylinder

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Big Mo

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Anyone know anything about bench bleeding a master cylinder. I have mine installed in car but can take it out if I have to. If I need to bleed it what is the procedure to bleed it.
 
Never had to bench bleed one. The only one was on a ford ranger for the clutch. Got an air bubble in the line and could not get it out. LOL.
 
Since you have it mounted already , I'd just bleed the system, get ya a bottle, small hose , put the hose on the bleed valve and fill the bottle half way with brake fluid,, and that way you can do it alone
 
I had a big ordeal with getting my brakes to work with new master cylinders I got for it. What ended up doing to bleed the MC, instead of using the plastic plugs supplied with new MC nowadays I bench bled it the Chrysler way of running lines from the outlet ports of the MC back into the MC: you then pump the piston from the back of it with a dowel rod or something until the air bubbles in the fluid disappear. Then you leave the lines in when you install the MC in the car and quickly swap out the permanent lines for the temporary lines making sure to not let the MC run dry.

Theoretically you shouldn't have to bench bleed master cylinders - but I always end up doing it.
 
Yep and that is why I don't do that it make's a mess and don't like brake fluid on fresh paint. A buddy of mine is using a syringe he get's from Tractor supply a large one then puts a hose on it to the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder and pushes it towards the master cylinder. No air bubble's in the line. Also no mess under the hood. Just keep an eye on the reservoir it dose not get too full.
 
1968 man said:
Start on the wheel cylinder further from the master cylinder. bleed several times.
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Hi 1968 man, I guess my next question is I don't have the front suspension on the car. I will put that in with k frame and motor. Can I bleed the mc now or does it all need hooked up?
 
Wait until it's all put together an use a vacuum pump. Start at the wheel farthest from the master and work towards it
 
I use dot 5 in mine but everything is new. Dot 5 doesn't play well with other fluids so make sure it is a clean system.
 
All new part's 69hemibeep. All the old stuff was trash for a lack of better word's to describe what was on the car. You know it was a rust bucket.
 
Need some help with brakes. Got my RR end of last year. Came with SSBC disc/drum 4 piston calibers. 1st drive..hit the brakes and slowly stopped.Found both rear wheel cylinders frozen. Did complete rear drum brake replacement. Turned front rotors and all looked good. Also did new stainless steel brake lines and CPP Master/Boost proportioning valve kit #6374BB2. Bench bled MC and all lines. Test drive-still slow stop with good pedal. I should go through the windshield with these calipers! I'm thinking not enough volume to drive the pistons. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
I would bleed the system one wheel at a time. You might have air bubbles some where in the line. Just enough so you have pedal but not solid pressure.
 
Russ69Runner said:
I would bleed the system one wheel at a time. You might have air bubbles some where in the line. Just enough so you have pedal but not solid pressure.
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Hi Russ......we bled the system for hours. Smacked the calipers and wheel cylinder with a rubber hammer until we had no bubbles for 10 pumps/holds. I'm getting a brake pressure gauge to see what my pressure is at the front wheel cylinder. Tech from SSBC said I need at least 1000 psi. Wish me luck.
 
Man that don't figure. Is it power brake's. Wonder if the their is a problem at the divider or splitter. Have you jacked it up and have someone put the brake on then try to turn the wheel. I know that sounds stupid but have done that just to see what might be wrong. Yes wish ya luck looks like a really nice car.
 
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